Our group of three decided to scout out the Deadeye Dick approach Tom Jones accidentally discovered and describes in one of his Latest Rave reports. It’s a one car up and back starting from Chamberlains. We had done the usual loop approach to the canyon last November and found one of the easy upclimbs that was supposed to be 10ft (Bluugnome beta), had turned into an unclimbable (with our skills anyway) 20ft vertical wall. Luckily we were able to place an uprooted tree which enabled us to climb up and continue the route. As of 8/14 the tree we placed is still there, but it could wash out at anytime.
The route Tom describes leaves the Virgin further down river of the more common loop route. With his write up he added coordinates for the spot, so we found it easily. It is a narrow wash that ascends up to the cliff band. Once at the cliff band we followed a ledge to the right, as Tom did. The ledge leads back toward the river, a couple hundred feet above, then turns left parallel to the river. The ledge is angled down, but not too steep. Staying high enough near the cliff band, we didn’t feel too exposed, as there were many bushes and trees that would arrest our slide should we slip. There is no trail on the ledge and a lot of bushwacking slowed our progress. Eventually the ledge turns left up Deadeye Dick canyon. We continued on the ledge until we were far enough up the canyon to be level with the canyon floor. We entered the water course right at the 3rd rappel.
We crossed over to the other side and climbed up to a spot where we could ascend above the cliff band. We then traversed this hillside further up canyon until we were above the first rappel, where we descended back to the canyon floor and began the technical section.
The canyon was pretty straight forward. At rappel 2 we were expecting to build a deadman but we found a sling around the base of a bush on the left wall LDC. It seemed pretty solid so we set up a meat backup and sent down our heaviest guy. It didn’t budge so we used it.
As we got further down canyon we noticed the mud getting worse and worse. The bottom of the last rappel was a mud pit like none of us had experienced before. When you reached the ground you sank straight down up to your knees in mud which was extremely difficult to get out of. And extremely difficult to clean off!
How does Tom’s accidental approach hike compare to the more common loop route? Despite the bushwacking we preferred Tom’s . It is shorter, less strenuous, and more scenic. Thanks to Tom for happening upon it and writing it up!
gootwan
The other benefit to Tom’s access route that I didn’t mention is that it is mostly shaded, as opposed to the “other” loop approach which is in full sun much of the way. But be prepared for bushwacking and hiking across a pitched ledge with at times unstable ground.
R Marsters
I think we used your tree earlier this year, as did a good number of biting ants. The approach took quite awhile (2 hrs?) and was rather annoying. Another party got to the canyon the same time as us dropping in from the top and they said it took them about 20 min. I think next time I’ll try the earlier exit on the left if I can’t do a shuttle.
ratagonia
Thanks Gootwan. Since I had not done the “other” route, I personally was not able to compare. We did this route again this summer, and it was rougher than I remembered. Was hoping for some confirmation. I still like the two-car version better, when the logistics work out.
Tom