Trip Report

Failure of a maillon (quick link) in Blue Mountains canyon

willie92708 said:

Fair enough, clearly my conjecture is EXTREMELY far fetched, even if it might be that 0.001% situation. Even that 0.001% would be impossible if that Rapide was individually tested by Maillon as all the PPE ones are individually tested. Click to expand…

Report Details

Authorratagonia
DateMarch 13, 2019
Region
Discussion4 replies
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  • willie92708

    BTW, I was told my a route setter (he works professionally as an industrial rigger) at my climbing gym, that they are only allowed to use the Metolius 10mm steel quick-links for the competition quick draws, because they are individually tested. Yes the only the reference I can dig up for that is at REI’s website (see picture). I assume Metolius could individually pull test these to the full 30KN (or at least 25KN, minimum PPE strength ), since a quality steel 10mm quick link should have a MBS of 54KN.

  • willie92708

    Sorry Tom, as first I did not understand why you were asking your question (above), and puzzled over it all yesterday while out in a local canyon. Then this morning I realize I typed “as” instead of “if” in my sentence. Okay, I’m getting older, my mind wanders too much, and my presbyopia is such I need to be sure I’m wearing proper reading glasses for proof reading! Then once I replace “as” with “if” I realize the grammar needs help since I have 2 cascaded “if”‘s.

    So, I will restate what I was thinking (hopefully clearer): If all the PPE Maillon Rapides are individually tested, then an extreme thread tolerance problem would be caught in quality control, thus the end user would never see such a failure under “body weight” loads even for the 6mm steel delta loaded along the thread side of the delta. But as we both know, even without individual testing, Mallion must employ many other quality controls making it nearly impossible to have extreme thread tolerance problem.

    Willie

  • garthkevin1

    Okay I’m going to chime in.

    Zoom in on the picture, if failed because it was not closed.

    The threads are intact and the barrel is at the top.

    I’m a mechanic and I’ve see plenty of broke bolts and failed threads.

    Oh btw I have three French quick links that I’ve used for 12 year’s to lift engines they look brand new.

    Just saying

    Sent from my GT-N8013 using Tapatalk

    • willie92708

      Yes, I agree that if the gate was threaded closed you would expect the threads to be visibly sheared (even noticeable from a photograph). However (and much to my surprise), the one (pictured above, cheap Chinese crap that failed during pull testing) failed by having the gate threads pull over the body threads without damaging either set of threads to the point that gate seems any different when screwed back onto either set of body threads. Clearly, that one has far too much thread tolerance (see link below) which allowed a failure mechanism that should be impossible for a Maillon Rapide, since that company must employ quality control standards that simply would not ever allow a single unit to go out the door with such an extreme thread tolerance problem.

      http://www.boltscience.com/pages/screw8.htm

      BTW, I assume you meant to type: “Zoom in on the picture, it failed because it was not closed.” and I read it as “it” and just now noticed you typed “if”

      Willie