First Ascent of Castle Dome, South Face, via Behunin Canyon

First known ascent of Castle Dome, South Face, via Behunin Canyon

On October 30, 2015, Matt Mower and I (Dan Stih) made what is likely the first ascent of Castle Dome.

(Image 1 – Castle Dome from the West Rim Trail).

Because it had not been climbed before, I feared it would be a great undertaking, requiring a lot of nasty, loose, grungy aid up steep, white stand stone. First I went on a solo recon.

The shortest way to the summit of Castle Dome appeared to be the North buttress. I accessed it by rappelling off the mesa that extends off from the the West Rim just past the first campgrounds. With a haul bag full of aid gear, I hiked out toward the saddle between the West Rim and Castle Dome. I rappelled 430 feet into the saddle next to Castle Dome where I spent two days exploring the area.

(Image 2: Approach to saddle on north face of Castle Dome)

The north buttress of Castle Dome looks climbable but would not a picnic. (Image 3) The cracks don’t line up. It might require a bit of awkward aiding on loose rock to connect free and aid pitches. I therefore sought an easier way. I scrambled down towards the SE, but realized I needed a normal belay to do more. I returned to the saddle, climbed back to the West Rim and went to get a partner.

On Oct 30th, starting from the Grotto, Matt Mower and I hiked up to the West Rim and rappelled back into the saddle on the north side of Castle Dome. From there we left rope fixed as necessary as we rappelled and scrambled downward, circumventing down and around the East side of Castle Dome, the line in blue.

(Image 5, the Blue line is the circumvent route; the Yellow thepotential north buttress route).

Following a ramp system up and left (South), we eventually reached the South corner of Castle Dome where one can look down onto the Zion Lodge. (Image 6 – Ramp)

The first belay is at the end of this ramp on the SE side of Castle Dome. (Image 7 – first belay)

Matt set the first belay at a bush (Image 8). I suspect future parties will want to belay to get to that bush some 50-100 feet earlier.

From there we climbed two pitches around the corner before simul-climbing to the summit

(Image 9 – Middle pitches simul-climbed).

From the summit we rappelled the North buttress of Castle Dome, the route that looked more difficult. This required a belay and down climb to a tree and then three rappels to get back to the saddle. We then went and got the fixed rope we left on our traverse when rappelling, and went back up the saddle to the West Rim. We did all this in one long day from the Grotto.

That got me to thinking – could the South Face route we just climbed on Castle Dome be climbed directly from Behunin Canyon?

On November 12, 2015, Courtney Courtney Purcell, author of, Zion National Park: Summit Routes, and Aron Ralston and myself re-climbed the South Face route, via Behunin canyon.

This Google Earth image has Matt and my route from the saddle in Blue; the route via Behunin Canyon in Red.
(Image 10 – Google Earth)

From the West Rim Trail, we descended into Behunin canyon as one normally does.
(Image 1 – Ice on approach on West Rim Trail)

(Image 2 – in Behunin canyon)

Just before the first rappel in Behunin (Image 3), we exited by continuing south, scrambling up and out of Behunin (Image 4).

We were able to get to point where Matt and myself had previously reached when we rappelled from the saddle.
We got on to the same ramp system, the ramp that angles up and left until it peters out just before getting around the corner onto the south face. (Image 5 – approach ramp).

From there we re-climbed the South Face route.
(Image 7 – the first pitch as seen from the belay at the end of the first pitch around the corner).

In the middle of the route instead of simul-climbing as Matt and I had done, we un-tied from the rope
(Images 8 and 9. Aron comfortable and solid, climbing the sandy face while carrying the rope).

The consensus is this is 5th class, maybe 5.3. Stay roped up.

(Image 11 Near summit. CP with his trademark pack and helmet).

(Image 11a Near summit. Photo by C.P.).

Instead of rappelling the north buttress back to the saddle, we descended the South Face route, down-scrambling to a point above and just before the first belay. We did one double-rap down to the belay, then hiked back up Behunin Canyon to the West Rim Trail. This was a day trip, car to car, dawn to dusk.

Route Description Summary:
Those descending Behunin with ample time and a good head for exposure may find this an enjoyable excursion on their way down Behunin. As you’re coming down Behunin canyon, when you make the 90 deg turn to go east where the bushes thin out and you find yourself on level, open red rock, scrabble up the cliffs to the south. If you go to the first rappel you’ve gone too far. Backup and scramble, zig-zag up the south cliffs. You will eventually reach a high point that flattens out. Continue along it south. Stay high. Aim for the ramp that hugs the otherwise blank east face of Castle Dome.

Rope up where the ramp starts to peter out and it becomes 5th class. From the first belay turn the corner, slinging trees and bushes for protection. Traverse straight left, avoiding the temptation to go up too soon. It’s easier if you stay low and traverse most of the first rope length. Towards the end of the traverse you’ll come to a blocky section where it becomes easy to climb straight up and back right, up to another tree. The first pitch is a full rope length to a big tree belay. From there one can simul-climb up and left on easier ground. Or go right for another pitch before coming back left to the same place.

From the first belay the climbing takes approximately 2 hours to the summit. Round-trip from from where one leaves Behunin canyon is probably 4 hours for a party comfortable with simul-climbing 5th class as well as down-climbing it. Good route finding abilities are required to find the proper place to rappel back to the first belay. On the descent, as you are down-climbing, head towards the cliff above the first belay. There are several tress you can choose from for rappel that will put you back on the approach ramp just before the first belay, negating the need to down-climb the first pitch. We left no rap slings.

Pro: Matt and I left a fixed piton on the second pitch. You’ll come across it if you wander right after the first tree belay (on the 2nd pitch) instead of up and left. CP, AR, and I used pins to set the first belay. I couldn’t get the nerve to make the moves to tie the bush off for a belay. You can get by without pins if you take the time for an extra belay. Cams are no good. The rock is too soft. About a dozen long slings for tress and bushes; more if you want to simul-climb.

Rating: The consensus is 5th class, maybe 5.3. I think the consensus’ers were wearing rock shoes. I wasn’t wearing rock shoes on either outing. It felt 5.6-5.7 in my hiking boots at times. It’s sandy and loose. Great care is required else you’ll find yourself sliding. Expect a few footholds to crumble. If there’s snow on the approach ramp consider simulclimbing with tied-off bushes. (We didn’t, I slipped on the snow, slid and if a bush had not caught me I would not be here to write about it). Thanks Nick. Cheers!

Who will be first to do the ascent of the South Face and then finish by descending the rest of Behunin as well? Can’t wait to hear about it. Be safe out ther

Dan Stih