Trip Report

Journalists Have No Idea What Is Going On

While the story behind the article is sad, I had to chuckle at the headline:

Two hikers die after falling from El Capitan in Yosemite, park officials say

The “hikers” were climbing Freeblast, a 10 pitch 5.11, basically the first third of the Salathe Wall. Somehow the journalist saw a parallel between that and the hiker who fell off the cables route up the back of Half Dome.

http://www.foxnews.com/us/2018/06/0…l-capitan-in-yosemite-park-officials-say.html

The NPS hasn’t released much info on the cause of the accident.

https://www.nps.gov/yose/learn/news/two-climbers-fall-from-el-capitan-in-yosemite-national-park.htm

Report Details

AuthorCanyonero
DateJune 2, 2018
Region
Discussion12 replies
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  • First things first, RIP to all who have traded in life while pursuing interests that others deem as extremes.

    That said, I must raise an eyebrow of relativity at this point.

    Like you, I have family and friends who look on me as some kind of extreme daredevil who doesn’t value life “like he should”.

    Then I compare myself to others (even some that frequent this forum) and think, “I’m not in their same zipcode.”

    Then take it to another level (like these two adventurers, Klein and Wells, and many more like them) and think, “I’m not even in the same world”.

    Then, I think of the likes of Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin, Amelia Earhart or even Karen Darke, and know, “not even in the same galaxy!”

    Life’s too short, so follow your passions. And too long to live in fear not venturing out.

  • Jbancerewicz

    A fatal accident on El Capitan. Two “runners” were killed

    On June 2, there was a tragic accident at Salathé Wall (El Capitan). Two experienced climbers – Tim Klein and Jason Wells – were killed during the climb with a flying assault .

    Tim Klein and Jason Wells on Salathe Wall, 2012

    Tim Klein and Jason Wells are specialists in running on the walls of Yosemite. They had dozens of quick passes on El Capitan. For Tim, it would be the 107th passage of this magnificent wall. Sometimes, during one climbing weekend, they ran the wall twice.

    Salathé Wall, El Capitan, Yosemite (photo: supertopo)

    The accident took place at the bottom Salathé Wall lifts on the section called Freeblast . The team moved with a flying assurance. They were on the 9th or 10th lift in the field with difficulties 5.7. As they approached Mammoth Terraces, a shout was heard and the band connected with a rope fell about 300 meters to the ground.

    POLISH MAGAZINE CLIMBING .PL

    • townsend

      When I see those pictures of these climbers, it just makes me feel sick about this unfortunate climbing accident. Be careful, damn it!

  • Brian in SLC

    And another, from Werner Braun (longtime YOSAR, etc):

    The elite do elite stuff and reap high praise and that’s why they’re called elite.

    When stuff goes wrong they can suffer elite failure.

    That’s the name of the game and it’s not going away ……

  • A sobering quote from Taco link.

    • townsend

      Yeah, we have already discussed why we don’t want to replicate “speed climbing” in canyoneering — one can imagine, “I’ll set up a shorter simply anchor to win the speed record, roop grooves be damned.”

      If it’s bad for the environment, it’s should not be part of the sport.

      • Brian in SLC

        Certainly can call out bad anchoring behavior just like folks called out the feller that shortcutted the switchbacks running down from an impressive speed solo of the Grand Teton. And, they did.

        Folks enjoy going fast. And, I think the techniques employed for speed/efficiency lend themselves to the general population too. A well oiled machine.

        Could say the same about ghosting or natural (and “unnatural”) anchor techniques…given that well placed fixed anchors would mitigate rope grooves.

        Been a number of pretty bad train wrecks in the last year or two in the climbing community whilst speed climbing. Even Hollywood Hans wasn’t immune. Interesting to read (and re-read) the thread on the ‘taco referenced above. Some wise folk chiming in.

        Meanwhile…Tommy and Alex…2 oh, frickin’ one for the Nose? Sub 2 might well be the Roger Bannister moment…

        I think the take away for at least me is be efficient, go fast if possible, but, keep the risk and corner cutting to a minimum…

        Does conjure up the Wymper quote from 1871 following his race to be first up the Matterhorn:

        “Still, the last sad memory hovers round, and sometimes drifts across like floating mist, cutting off sunshine and chilling the remembrance of happier times. There have been joys too great to be described in words, and there have been griefs upon which I have not dared to dwell; and with these in mind I say: Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; look well to each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end.”

      • ratagonia

        A speed canyoneer rapped off ancient bolts on the penultimate rap in Imlay, rather than rig off the huge log. The next party through rigged a backup to those bolts using the log as the primary anchor, and the bolt snapped.

        Jus’ Sayin’…

  • Brian in SLC

    Dispelled, I think.

    Tragic accident. The speed climbing game is a harsh mistress.

    Condolences to friends and family.

  • Canyonero

    Ugh….rumor is that a dropped haul bag pulled them off.