Spearheading Zion

Thanks to Ratagonia for helping out in getting the photos up.

With the hot months disappearing it was time to go after one of the bigger Zion canyons. Temps were gonna be colder but bearable, only getting down into the low 30’s. After falling asleep around midnight we fired up the car at 3 am and headed to the holy land. After a bit logistical effort, we had everybody at the Grotto at 5 am and the car down at the Junction. Grotto to Behunin Pass in 1.75hrs. Scrambled up Behunin Ridge, wacked through some shrubbery, scouted out the entry sequence and we were on rap at 9 am. The top of Spearhead is a pretty daunting sight at first glance, it’s really really big…but it goes.

It’s obvious from maps and miscellaneous beta that the main challenge of Spearhead is the entry sequence. We had a larger group for sure, but after an hour working on a snagged rope (you can always count on a good bush to catch a cord) all five of us landed at the bottom of the almost 800 ft headwall in 4 raps.

The bottom of Spearhead is really the belly of a beast, you feel like you’ve been completely enveloped within Zion, it’s an amazing feeling. Soaring walls, a few down climbs, a few thousand steps and a handful of raps lead to the view out into the Emerald Pools Cirque. The final mostly bolted chimney sequence was one of the coolest parts of the day, a beautiful view out and an awesome tight slot. We made the final rap off two lost arrows and a bolt 170ish feet to the floor, the first guy touching down at 4:45, We hooked onto the lower emerald pools trail and were eating murder burgers at Oscars as twilight started to fade.

Spearhead is full on. Consequences are higher, rewards are bigger, a real full bore adventure. If you have the proper know-how, you should go for it.