http://www.wyofile.com/mountain-guide-death-leads-exum-fine/
A Jackson Hole climbing guide service paid a $7,350 fine for safety violations after state officials investigated the 2016 death of a guide who fell from the Grand Teton.
Exum Mountain Guides paid the fine and resolved two citations after an investigation by Wyoming’s Occupational Safety and Health Administration. The probe was prompted by the death of guide Gary Falk. The guide service agreed to review annually the personal safety gear that climbing guides use and document that inspection, according to recently released OSHA documents. Exum also agreed to document training about how to avoid contact with biological hazards, such as blood.
Falk, 42, died in a fall from the 13,775-foot Grand Teton on July 23, when he was descending the peak with young clients from a group called City Kids. Grand Teton National Park climbing rangers believe a knot Falk tied to make a tether from nylon webbing slipped and sent him plummeting 2,500 feet to his death. The tether — a four-foot loop or sling — was part of his personal gear and not supplied by Exum.
—> fairly long and interesting article, especially for us “in the business”.
Be careful out there. Inspect your gear.
Tom
AW~
Those in the business of canyoneering for the outdoors tourist lobby should know that following Exum’s business example will land them in a lot hotter water.
http://planetjh.com/2016/07/05/get-out-mountain-medicine/
Is the above link going to be the goal of the canyoneering business…government sales section?
Peer pressure/bullying/force KIDS through difficult canyoneering routes?
No update on CityKids…never even mentioned on their facebook….which I guess means the Grand Tetons is off as far as a first route, while the planners remain employed. No accountibility needed….in fact the Tetons were a result of an overview. As they said pre-Exum “Over the last few years, attending the WRMC has significantly impacted how City Kids manages risk and operates as a program. The WRMC and NOLS Risk Management Training have provided a language, common framework, and structure for our management team in addressing risk. Broadly, the WRMC has stimulated conversation about organizational risk and program goals and again provided a common framework for staff members to discuss risk management. More specifically, attending the WRMC prompted some significant review of our risk management practices. Some of these projects include reviewing and updating our participant agreement, reviewing and updating our medical review system, writing a risk management plan, and thinking critically of our design of staff training. Risk management is now a part of the living culture of City Kids and ingrained in the ways we talk and implement our programs.”
https://blog.nols.edu/2014/08/14/city-kids-wilderness-project-and-the-wrmc
Ahh…the participant agreement. Like is signed on the shows and people want to leave. They are reminded that they have to return to the stage and take some more.
hank moon
Great article – rare to get such detail on an accident. For anyone wanting more, see attached documents below.
Fave quote:
hank
Kuenn
It worked great….until it didn’t. Probably the truism you don’t want to hear in the vertical world.
Brian in SLC
We were staying at the Climber’s Ranch when this happened and had a friend on the Ranger SAR team…ugh. Sad deal.
I know some folks who use sub optimal gear and sometimes wonder if its out of some dirtbag perception or some such. I mean, for a tether, who wouldn’t use either a sewn sling or a cord which a triple fishermans (or something more robust than a thin knotted sling)?
Reminds me of Skinner and his old, worn out harness.
pyle762
Did they mention the knot he used and why it failed anywhere? Water knot with tails that weren’t log enough?
ETA- Reading is everything. I saw in the article that it was a water knot with short tails.
ratagonia
[snark] your question could be answered by reading the article. [/snark]
Brian in SLC
I think it was 9/16″ webbing which can work its self loose over time through repeated cycling use. 1″ would be better, but, that knot needs to be tight and constantly re-inspected. What’s a sewn sling cost? Ugh.