Talk about change! This canyon has now officially moved to the advanced level.
Almost exactly to the day, Tyler and I did this canyon in 2011. And to verify our experience, I dug out my old notes and confirmed the canyon back then had water, was very narrow in multiple sections, however passable. I rated it a 3.1 on the Mountaineer personal scale difficulty level in 2011 (3.0 is easiest, and 3.9 hardest). And to complete my analysis, yes (ha ha), I verified the scale, my clothes, etc. to today. I’m the same size.
Tyler, Curtis, and I escaped this challenging slot on Monday the 13th. It is no longer a 3.1.
The approach has some interesting pipes laying all around, and other structures. Seems the ranchers are doing a lot of work in the area.
Once in, the canyon starts out with some fun down climbs, open areas, and narrows. Nothing too crazy, but enough to get things going and fun.
Then you hit the s k i n n i e s . And once you combine it with some fresh jammed logs and mud, you are in for a challenging day. Well, I thought the chimney up climbing would help a bit, however even at those heights you have to exhale to push through sometimes. Yikes! Haven’t done any of that before. Stemming while exhaling? Intense stuff.
Toward the end things get a little better, still tight, but manageable. Then, you finally pop out to an open area and escape.
Just passed that, however, is the best part. A dark, slanted steep drop that opens up to an alcove then a 200+’ vertical drop! Talk about an amazing cave (no light, and almost fully closed up). Totally worth a trip. One of the best canyon sections I’ve seen. And, if you want to forgo the squeeze challenge, simple hike to the exit point and check it out. Be careful in here though, best to fix a rope to improve your chances of getting back up and out.
peakbaggers
Yes – this is “Smallcatraz.” When we did it, it was a nice, warm spring day. Wetsuit would have been completely unnecessary. Would be interesting to do the rap at the end into the wider canyon below. Anybody know if there’s beta on that drop? Of course, then you would probably have a very long hike to find a way back out.
John Diener
Hi Mountaineer,
Do you know if you wore a wetsuit on your first go in 2011? I can’t seem to remember how intensely tight Smallcatraz is, but I know I will NEVER wear a wetsuit or neoprene shorts in Chambers, Shenanigans, or if going low through the last section of Trail. I feel like it not only adds 6mm+ thickness, but a wetsuit tends not to slide as smoothly on the rock, as compared to a thin synthetic layer. In any case, I can imagine mud makes that canyon beastly, so good job!
-john
Mountaineer
Hi John – no, we actually wore clothes and got soaked and cold. Even in those conditions, I rated it back then as a fairly easy canyon to get through.
Interested in hearing others perspectives if anyone has done it in the past, and can compare it to today.
Peter Novak
Just completed Smallcatraz on 10/17/2014. Mountaineer’s report had me quaking in my Canyoneer II s. We approached the canyon with some trepidation, wearing only pants, T shirt, soft knee and elbow pads. The canyon was a joy. With some stemming, we were able to keep our feet dry, and wetsuits were not necessary. The climb out has good foot and hand holds, bring handline for beginners or those concerned about exposure. Car to car, three hours. Overall, a quick, challenging, satisfying romp, as described in this and other sites. My rating: PG-, mainly for the optional climb back up after the dark chamber.
Mountaineer
Hope it didn’t put you quaking … The canyon is definitely harder than before, but I would say easier (and similar) than Chambers or Shennanigans. Agree it is a PG type. Very tight, don’t underestimate it. Calmly just keep pushing hard.
We thought the squeeze above the long dark climb out was harder (we didn’t fix a line above the log).
Sounds like you prepared well. It took us 3 hours exactly as well.
Nice job!
peakbaggers
Did this back in spring of 2013. Based on Ryan’s beta, thought it would be a half day at best. Took us closer to 6 hours round trip. Spent a lot of time at that end section. Climbing back up was a good challenge. The narrows had some water which we avoided by stemming over. Quite tight and difficult to get any kind of pack through along with your body. Ryan’s suggestion that you not take a pack is worth considering. Just take along a 40 piece of webbing to get down & back up that final section. But you still need some water, etc, so take a very skinny pack & minimal equipment. We considered it to be a great workout.
Mountaineer
Indeed! We planned for ~1 hour, and after 3 we were pretty tired. This is a good one. And I love the view at the end. Magnificent!
R Marsters
Nice! Is this otherwise known as “Smallcatraz?” An awesome surprise for a 2A rated canyon. First time through in March, I don’t remember much water though a couple skinny spots. Second time through in May had quite a bit of water. Bit of a slick cave and annoying climb out.
Mountaineer
? Not sure if some consider this Smallcatraz. I like it, as it is very similar to Alcatraz tightness.
ratagonia
Wow!