From what I read, what they are trying to say is that you don’t want to use a dynamic Equalizing anchor on anchor points that may fail. In the case that an anchor failed it would shock load the other anchors in the system which could result in a chain reaction (BAD). A cordalette would solve this problem because it allows you to equalize the anchor points but it is also static if you tie an overhand knot at the bottom. There is a way to tie a cordalette to allow dynamic equalization but it is too hard for me to describe and I’ve only seen it used in S&R. It will also shock load the other anchor points in the event of a failure.
Chris s. Raver Microsoft
—–Original Message—– From: mike_dallin [mailto:dallin@on-line.com] Sent: Friday, March 29, 2002 9:38 AM To: Yahoo Canyons Group Subject: Re: [from Canyons Group] 2 point anchors WAS: Prefered Methods for Ascending
— In canyons@y…, “s_mestdagh”
steve
Hi Steve,
Thanks for posting that. I think I’ll drop a rope off of my balcony this weekend and give the pursell system a go.
Now, a question for all you climbing anchor techies out there, something I see quite often. Just above the pursell description is a 2-point load distributing anchor (something I’ve always heard called a “sliding knot” or “sliding x”). According to the first paragraph:
“Also known as a pseudo – equalizing anchor, this arrangement is commonly used to share the load between two otherwise strong and secure anchor points to provide redundancy in case of failure of a single point.”
But then, in the second paragraph:
“If one ore more protection pieces within an anchor are less than perfect, an alternative configuration which does not allow for extension to occur should be employed.”
What do people think about this? Seems one would use this only if there is no chance of anchor failure, but then who cares about redundancy or equalization? Isn’t this a contradiction? Wouldn’t a cordalette work better, as the extension would be minimized in case of one anchor failing (at the loss of some equalization)? Or, if you want to keep equalization, using two shorter slings (one off of each anchor point) connected with a biner/quicklink?
When would one use this configuration?
Mike “it’s the american death triangle for me” Dallin dallin@on-line.com