Yahoo Canyons Group

Climbing Ropes for Canyoneering?

> On Mon, Nov 30, 2009 at 2:56 PM, Greg <> wrote: >> i may sound like a dummy, but how do you use the Canyon Pull Cord .. >> it says do not rap on it, so i rap on a single 60meter and pull it >> down with your pullcord? i can not figure it out? tks i’m a old >> climber who does a few canyons in moab each spring.. tks greg > From: Tom Jones [mailto:canyoneeringusa@gmail.com] Sent: Monday, November 30, 2009 2:10 PM To: greg Subject: Re: i have to ask

Yup, like that. Here’s a page with a few tech tips written up – check out the one on biner blocks, pull cords ‘n’ stuff like that.
http://canyoneeringusa.com/utah/tech/
> I’m and old climber too, and they taught me new tricks…
Tom > On Mon, Nov 30, 2009 at 5:47 PM, Greg <> wrote: > Hey great that is just what I wanted to see….
Can the rap rope be a 1/2 rope? > from Tom Jones canyoneeringusa@gmail.com> to greg date Mon, Nov 30, 2009 at 7:00 PM

Uh,… yes……………………………..

The designation ‘single’, ‘twin’, and ‘half’ rope is all about leader falls. If you are taking those while canyoneering, then you are already in trouble.

Generally, canyoneering, we use 8mm, 8.3mm or 9mm static ropes. Granted, static ropes have a LOT more heft at a give diameter than dynamic ropes. Nothing wrong with using your old dynamic climbing ropes for canyoneering, but they will be annoying if you are going in and out of water, etc. And you should definitely NOT use a dynamic rope for lead climbing after you use it for canyoneering, assuming it gets really wet and sandy – not good for a lead line.

But, it CAN be a struggle to get the proper level of friction on a small-diameter climbing rope. Caveat rappeletor!

Tom

Message Details

AuthorTomJones
DateNovember 30, 2009
Discussion1 replies
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  • Mike Schasch

    How about canyoneering ropes for climbing?

    While waiting for my dad this year at the main trail exit of Mnt Whitney I saw two younger guys walking out with an Imlay 8mm rope on their pack. The guy with the rope was also sporting 5.10 canyoneers. I hope they weren’t leading one of the popular east face routes on Whitney with that rope. Maybe they were using it as a back up/bail option or to rappel the mountaineers route. Strange.

    — In Yahoo Canyons Group, “TomJones” wrote:

    > On Mon, Nov 30, 2009 at 2:56 PM, Greg wrote:

    > i may sound like a dummy, but how do you use the Canyon Pull Cord ..

    > it says do not rap on it, so i rap on a single 60meter and pull it

    > down with your pullcord? i can not figure it out? tks i’m a old

    > climber who does a few canyons in moab each spring.. tks greg

    > From: Tom Jones [mailto:canyoneeringusa@…] > Sent: Monday, November 30, 2009 2:10 PM > To: greg > Subject: Re: i have to ask

    Yup, like that. Here’s a page with a few tech tips written up – check out the one on biner blocks, pull cords ‘n’ stuff like that.

    http://canyoneeringusa.com/utah/tech/

    > I’m and old climber too, and they taught me new tricks…

    Tom

    > On Mon, Nov 30, 2009 at 5:47 PM, Greg wrote:

    Hey great that is just what I wanted to see….

    Can the rap rope be a 1/2 rope?

    > from Tom Jones date Mon, Nov 30, 2009 at 7:00 PM

    Uh,… yes……………………………..

    The designation ‘single’, ‘twin’, and ‘half’ rope is all about leader > falls. If you are taking those while canyoneering, then you are > already in trouble.

    Generally, canyoneering, we use 8mm, 8.3mm or 9mm static ropes. > Granted, static ropes have a LOT more heft at a give diameter than > dynamic ropes. Nothing wrong with using your old dynamic climbing > ropes for canyoneering, but they will be annoying if you are going in > and out of water, etc. And you should definitely NOT use a dynamic > rope for lead climbing after you use it for canyoneering, assuming it > gets really wet and sandy – not good for a lead line.

    But, it CAN be a struggle to get the proper level of friction on a > small-diameter climbing rope. Caveat rappeletor!

    Tom >