Adam Steel, who descended Sandthrax a few years back came up with some rating systems on his own, which included stemming, pothole ratings. He also wrote a bit on the “Unique Types of Difficulties in X Canyons.” With his permission, I will share his views here. I HOPE it copies well from the document that it was written on.
Describing the numbers and letters that represent aspects of a canyon’s character. –by Adam Steel
Overall Difficulty Rating An attempt to quantify all the various difficulties of a canyon, apart from the commitment and consequence ratings, into one simple rating.
E – Easy. Walking, no canyon rappel skills required. (Example – Egypt 3)
M – Moderate. Walking, maybe some squeezing, with canyon rappel skills required. (Example – Alcatraz)
D – Difficult. Physical fitness required due to one or more sections. Mae-westing, pothole escape techniques or cold water exposure are all potential elements. (Examples – Shenanigans, the Squeeze, Kolob)
VD – Very Difficult. Difficulty increases in side-chimneying or pothole escape. (Examples – Chambers, Wood, Trachyotomy)
ED1 – Extremely Difficult: Increased exposure to challenges. These canyons are more relentless, requiring more focus and fitness. They are characterized by high consequences and difficult movements. (Example – Big Tony, Raven)
ED2 – The next level, and it goes on… Consequences Rating System The Consequence Rating System does not take difficulty into account. It is an indication of what could happen if one were to fall. The Consequences Rating System follows the movie rating system:
G – Casual. The minimum amount of risk is assumed.
PG – A bit of a step up. Moves may be off the ground by a few feet. A fall could be expected to cause a minor injury like a sprained ankle.
PG13 – Moves are a bit higher off the ground, at or over head height.
R – Serious injury is a probable consequence of a fall from an R-Rated section.
X – A fall from an X-Rated section is expected to be fatal.
S-System An attempt to grade the difficulties of stemming and mae-west canyons sections.
S0 – It’s a slot canyon, but there are no technical slot techniques required. (Example – Egypt 3, Alcatraz)
S1 – Mandatory, straightforward technical slot maneuvers, without being too strenuous. (Example – The final section of Shenanigans)
S2 – More strenuous or demanding technical mae-westing or chimneying. Possible slick surfaces and long elevators. Sometimes feels like 5.5-5.6 without a rope. (Example – Chambers)
S3 – Difficult up-chimneying, difficult or sustained slot maneuvers required. 360 degree routefinding likely. (Example – Big Tony, Raven)
S4 – Multiple strenuous upchimneys, sustained, difficult side-chimneying, likely presence of lichen on the walls. Similar to 5.8-5.9 in sections. (Example – Sandthrax)
S5 – You can only imagine. P-System An attempt to grade the difficulties of canyon potholes. The grade represents the single most difficult pothole in the canyon.
P0 – Awkward, yet non-technical potholes, easily crossed without aid.
P1 – Potholes requiring a shoulder stand or pack toss to exit. (Example – The Squeeze)
P2 – More advanced pothole exits required double shoulder stands, hooking, pack toss from a shoulder stand, etc, difficult pack toss. (Example – Imlay)
P3 – What is this like? Example – Poe?
Complete Examples Chambers, VD S2 I Shenanigans, D S1 III The Squeeze D P1 IV Imlay D P2 V Woody, VD P2 II Sandthrax, ED2 S5X 5.8+ II Possible>> Long Branch ED3 S6X IV
Other Possible Configurations:
High Water Med. Water Low Water Imlay D P1 V VD P2 V D P2 V
The Squeeze D P1 IV D P2 V
AKA’s Standard Kelsey Big Tony Sleepy Hollow DDI Middle Fork Glaucoma Warm Springs Creek Pandora’s Box Meek’s Mesa Slot PINTAC East Fork Tracheotomy Trachyte Slot Canyon Tight Ass East Fork of Baker NASTY ASS West Fork of Baker
Unique Types of Difficulties in X Canyons
Consequences – For many sections of X-Canyons, including X-rated sections that many would call 5.8 or harder, you have no rope. Roped possibilities may exist, but they are not often employed. Failure to escape from a pothole, slipping and falling while high stemming, getting caught by a flash flood or succumbing to cold-water exposure are all possible fates in X-Canyons. Ability, competence and a willingness to take these risks are required.
Canyon Anchors Canyon anchors are a distinct from rock climbing anchors, most notably in that the average trad climber would never willingly rappel from the average natural canyon anchor. Particularly in X-Canyons, which tend to be done by experienced canyoneers in areas with no-bolt ethics. Skill and comfort in building deadmen anchors, setting and releasing an Ibis hook and rappelling off of slings on bad rock are all examples of the types of anchors you will encounter in X-Canyons. Remember, it is not enough to know how to use what someone else built, because floods and flood debris often knock out established anchors, leaving the next party down with more work than they may have anticipated.
Pothole Escape For the armchair or inexperienced canyoneer, imagine a regular, steel mixing bowl. Now imagine you, three inches tall, in the bottom of that bowl. No holds, no features. How would you escape? Now imagine you, at three inches, floating in water at the bottom of that bowl, two or more armlengths away from the rim. Now imagine that water is cold enough to reduce motor function (you can’t swim) in an hour or less. You can likely easily imagine the worst case result in any of these scenarios, and they all exist at different times of the year in various X-Canyons. Experience with pothole escape techniques that do not damage the rock is key in passing through these sections with enough speed to keep yourself from getting benighted or worse.
Stemming and Mae-Westing Stemming is the act of moving through a somewhat wide space by using your hands and feet on the opposite sides of the canyon. Full body stemming is having both hands on one side, both feet on the other, stretching out your body to span the gap. Mae-Westing is, essentially, side-chimneying, pressing your feet on one side of the canyon and your back against the other. The term Mae-West comes from one canyoneer, looking up from the bottom of a deep slot to the upper walls, each curving back, who felt like he was in Mae-West’s ample bosom. Stemming and Mae-Westing are relatively simple techniques at first that become more technical and strenuous as canyon grades increase. In X-Canyons, blowing a stem or a mae-west movement in an X-rated section will send you to a probable fatal fall.
Chimneys One of the few canyoneering techniques you can practice at a crag. Like mae-westing or stemming, but going up. More strenuous on average than mae-westing. Multiple up chimneys in a canyon will seriously raise the difficulty.
Squeeze chimneys are up chimneys that are so tight that the climber can not use a feet-to-back technique. Other techniques, such as the frog or the sidewinder must be employed. Some people are squeeze chimney naturals, and others can’t climb squeeze chimneys even after a little practice. You won’t know which you are until you’re in one.
Off-Widths The other canyoneering technique you can practice at the crag. Offwidth climbing as experienced at the crag is generally more brutal than that experienced in current X-Canyons, but only in length. Chicken wings, arm bars, low bracing, knee jams and T-stacked feet are all techniques that will allow you to canyoneer more competently and, in a few cases, will be required to complete the canyon.
Lichen and Moss An unsung difficulty in canyons, mae-westing and stemming can be made much more difficult by this easily underestimated complication. Experienced canyoneers have experienced double foot blowouts due to poor lichen management, so move cautiously on even easy terrain when lichened.
Reputation Many X-Canyons have lingering or even recently earned reputations so fierce they seem to suffocate any who dare dream. A double edged sword that encourages caution and discourages attempts, reputation is mentioned here for awareness only as it seems to increase the difficulty of a canyon.
Rock Climbers Take Warning! Canyoneering in X-Canyons involves climbing on rock, but it is not Rock Climbing. An X-Canyon has little to do with a sweet hand crack in Yosemite Valley and almost nothing to do with that blue route on the steep wall in your climbing gym. You may see YDS grades attached to canyons, but these often refer to squeeze chimneys, off-widths or chimney moves; these three types of climbing are the bastard children of common rock climbing and require techniques unknown or uncomfortable to the average rock climber. Even canyon anchor building requires a mental shift for the proficient, multi-pitch tradmaster. Canyoneering is a different sport with unique challenges and risks. Respect that difference and follow a progression. You will likely soon find yourself advancing quickly and grateful for the time you took to learn.
KennethS
RAM
Don’t get me wrong here. I personally would be extremely annoyed looking at a canyon rating like:
The Squeeze D P1 IV D P2 V
Because it is so hard to grasp and a general description of the challenges is much more in keeping with the changing nature of the canyon. I think it is far more meaningful to read about the continuous demands on the canyoneer in Sandthrax and the general consensus that a rescue crew shadow progress that makes an impression that no abbreviated scale does. Reading about the tragedy that two fit canyoneers succumbed to hypothermia in Choprock conveys an impression that a sterile description cannot. No, what I am suggesting is the discussion of the thinking behind the rating systems and their limitiations gives the reader greater insight into the particular challenges that make up canyons generally. That is what was is so great about the article we are talking about.
I think there is appropriate concern that an overly specific rating system on the one hand instills false confidence and on the other hand stifles the spirit of personal exploration that is what canyoneering is all about. There is no perfect system nor any way to make canyoneers perfectly safe. I think that is the real point. It is more about what goes into the sausage.
Ken
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, “RAM” wrote:
Hey spinesnaper
I found the rating system ideas interesting, but complex. Its true that the present system bunches too many different type canyons in the same categories, but looking at the examples below, it feels way too much like trying to decipher the Kelsey guide’s acronyms. I would be interested in what others think too.
Ramoo
> — In Yahoo Canyons Group, “KennethS” wrote: > Also, opining here, if I were having trouble completing an ACA canyoneering book, I would turn it into a multi-authored reference and I would make it a point of having the author of this discussion write the chapter on canyon ratings and add a table with more examples of canyons with this expanded ratings.
Ken
Chambers, VD S2 I Shenanigans, D S1 III The Squeeze D P1 IV
> Imlay D P2 V Woody, VD P2 II Sandthrax,ED2 S5X 5.8+ II
> Possible>> Long Branch ED3 S6X IV
Imlay D P1 V VD P2 V D P2 V
The Squeeze D P1 IV D P2 V >
RAM
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, “Adam” wrote:
> 1. I’ve blatantly stolen concepts from other sports’ ratings, including mountaineering, bouldering/rock climbing and whitewater, which makes for a descriptive, yet dense, rating possibility. But this system is not unique in that quality. Consider this rating, taken from Alpinist 34: > South Central Buttress (ED2: VI 5.10 M4 1200m)
I wouldn’t call it stealing, just adopting pieces, which is a high form of flattery 😉
> 2. I think the system might not be as complex as it appears to some, as the document did not copy 100% into this conversation. For example, the Imlay example copied as: > The text explaining this is included, but might make more sense like this: > Low Water Med Water High Water > Imlay D P1 V VD P2 V D P2 V
I took this idea from a phenomenal whitewater guidebook called Whitewater of the Southern Rockies, where difficulty changes as the water levels shift.
This is another good idea, although water level will be hard to quantify visually to those that haven’t been before. Clever.
Seems pertinent to canyons like Imlay. Similarly, one could build a table like this for how body size affects difficulty. Sounds like a can of worms to me, but aren’t ratings in general?
Chest or hip width (gender differences) or just widest body part. Then Shenanigan’s sand level determines what difficulty and telling the level is nearly inpreceptable. What to do?
> 3. I’d also like to warn folks that this system is very young and I don’t have the mileage that many of you do. If adopted, I would expect the system to be like the Yosemite Decimal System in its early days: inconsistent, gaining consistency (and likely softness) with the years. Compare an old guidebook for Joshua Tree or Taqhuitz with the ratings on mountainproject.com to see what I mean.
LOL!! If your calling the crux in Thrax 5.8+ your likely right about numbers going soft in the future! I like partnering with folks who think its that easy. Makes me safer, the better you are. 😉
> 4. On Ram’s comparison to Kelsey’s acronyms, I had to shudder, then laugh at the similarities. I hate those acronyms! I wouldn’t want to be in that crowd. In humble defense, this system would appear ideally once, next to the canyon name, and not woven repeatedly into the text. I hear you though, Ram. Ouch.
It is apples and oranges really, so don’t take offense and we are talking about 5 or 6 different criteria, in your system, not dozens of acronyms from place names to quick links and all in between in the Kelsey guide. Not comparable. I was being cute! 😉
> 5. My biggest concerns with this rating system? > a. It takes a lot of the adventure out of the more difficult canyons, reducing the need to weed through paragraphs of text to sort out how hard it is and reassuring the hesitant canyoneer of the doability of each canyon (“This canyon is rated as hard as that other canyon I did, so chances are I won’t have a problem.”) > b. It reduces the community formed by the constant question asking and beta-swapping. > c. It could lead to more braggadocio and number chasing, which is not only potentially dangerous in these canyons but really annoying to be around. > d. It also attempts to quantify something that is not perfectly quantifiable and that will always feel like an injustice. The SATs and grades, common college acceptance criteria, are a good example of attempting to quantify future school performance into a number. That number will never correspond to the true talents of every applicant, just as any rating will never fully explain the experiences we all have in the canyons.
Also 5.9 off width is different than 5.9 slab and you address those distinctions more than has been before. I wouldn’t worry about folks not swapping info though. Folks like to gab.
> If you’re still reading, congratulations!
I am and thanks for the permission to post it and the stimulating ideas it presents, as well as your follow up.
I’m pretty excited that Ram posted this. Even if it’s never used, I hope it stirs interesting conversation about ratings and their place and function in the canyoneering world. I’m not on this site much at all but if you have any specific questions or scalding critique for me, feel free to contact me through Ram. (Hope that’s okay, Ram.)
Indeed it is and I will point you back toward us too, as conversations I think will interest you arise. Don’t be a stranger. Ram
Adam
Hey Ram,
I agree, this system is a bit complex and might not work for everyone. I have a few thoughts around the complexity and some concerns about my own system:
1. I’ve blatantly stolen concepts from other sports’ ratings, including mountaineering, bouldering/rock climbing and whitewater, which makes for a descriptive, yet dense, rating possibility. But this system is not unique in that quality. Consider this rating, taken from Alpinist 34:
South Central Buttress (ED2: VI 5.10 M4 1200m)
Throw in a water ice grade, a danger rating and an aid rating and you get ratings that look like this:
South Central Ridiculousness (ED2: VI 5.11bR A3+ M4 AI4 1200m)
Jimminy Christmas. Complicated, but gets a lot more of the message across to those savvy with the game (albeit not a huge percentage of climbers).
2. I think the system might not be as complex as it appears to some, as the document did not copy 100% into this conversation. For example, the Imlay example copied as:
High Water Med. Water Low Water Imlay D P1 V VD P2 V D P2 V
The text explaining this is included, but might make more sense like this:
Low Water Med Water High Water Imlay D P1 V VD P2 V D P2 V
I took this idea from a phenomenal whitewater guidebook called Whitewater of the Southern Rockies, where difficulty changes as the water levels shift. Seems pertinent to canyons like Imlay. Similarly, one could build a table like this for how body size affects difficulty. Sounds like a can of worms to me, but aren’t ratings in general?
3. I’d also like to warn folks that this system is very young and I don’t have the mileage that many of you do. If adopted, I would expect the system to be like the Yosemite Decimal System in its early days: inconsistent, gaining consistency (and likely softness) with the years. Compare an old guidebook for Joshua Tree or Taqhuitz with the ratings on mountainproject.com to see what I mean.
4. On Ram’s comparison to Kelsey’s acronyms, I had to shudder, then laugh at the similarities. I hate those acronyms! I wouldn’t want to be in that crowd. In humble defense, this system would appear ideally once, next to the canyon name, and not woven repeatedly into the text. I hear you though, Ram. Ouch.
5. My biggest concerns with this rating system? a. It takes a lot of the adventure out of the more difficult canyons, reducing the need to weed through paragraphs of text to sort out how hard it is and reassuring the hesitant canyoneer of the doability of each canyon (“This canyon is rated as hard as that other canyon I did, so chances are I won’t have a problem.”) b. It reduces the community formed by the constant question asking and beta-swapping. c. It could lead to more braggadocio and number chasing, which is not only potentially dangerous in these canyons but really annoying to be around. d. It also attempts to quantify something that is not perfectly quantifiable and that will always feel like an injustice. The SATs and grades, common college acceptance criteria, are a good example of attempting to quantify future school performance into a number. That number will never correspond to the true talents of every applicant, just as any rating will never fully explain the experiences we all have in the canyons.
If you’re still reading, congratulations! I’m pretty excited that Ram posted this. Even if it’s never used, I hope it stirs interesting conversation about ratings and their place and function in the canyoneering world. I’m not on this site much at all but if you have any specific questions or scalding critique for me, feel free to contact me through Ram. (Hope that’s okay, Ram.)
Adam
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, “RAM” wrote:
Hey spinesnaper
I found the rating system ideas interesting, but complex. Its true that the present system bunches too many different type canyons in the same categories, but looking at the examples below, it feels way too much like trying to decipher the Kelsey guide’s acronyms. I would be interested in what others think too.
Ramoo
> — In Yahoo Canyons Group, “KennethS” wrote: > Also, opining here, if I were having trouble completing an ACA canyoneering book, I would turn it into a multi-authored reference and I would make it a point of having the author of this discussion write the chapter on canyon ratings and add a table with more examples of canyons with this expanded ratings.
Ken
Chambers, VD S2 I Shenanigans, D S1 III The Squeeze D P1 IV
> Imlay D P2 V Woody, VD P2 II Sandthrax,ED2 S5X 5.8+ II
> Possible>> Long Branch ED3 S6X IV
Imlay D P1 V VD P2 V D P2 V
The Squeeze D P1 IV D P2 V >
RAM
Hey spinesnaper
I found the rating system ideas interesting, but complex. Its true that the present system bunches too many different type canyons in the same categories, but looking at the examples below, it feels way too much like trying to decipher the Kelsey guide’s acronyms. I would be interested in what others think too.
Ramoo
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, “KennethS” wrote: Also, opining here, if I were having trouble completing an ACA canyoneering book, I would turn it into a multi-authored reference and I would make it a point of having the author of this discussion write the chapter on canyon ratings and add a table with more examples of canyons with this expanded ratings. > Ken
Chambers, VD S2 I Shenanigans, D S1 III The Squeeze D P1 IV
Imlay D P2 V Woody, VD P2 II Sandthrax,ED2 S5X 5.8+ II
Possible>> Long Branch ED3 S6X IV
Imlay D P1 V VD P2 V D P2 V
The Squeeze D P1 IV D P2 V
KennethS
This discussion needs to be preserved on some of the other canyoneering websites so it can easily be found by an internet search. Also, opining here, if I were having trouble completing an ACA canyoneering book, I would turn it into a multi-authored reference and I would make it a point of having the author of this discussion write the chapter on canyon ratings and add a table with more examples of canyons with this expanded ratings.
Ken
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, “RAM” wrote:
Adam Steel, who descended Sandthrax a few years back came up with some rating systems on his own, which included stemming, pothole ratings. > He also wrote a bit on the “Unique Types of Difficulties in X Canyons.” With his permission, I will share his views here. I HOPE it copies well from the document that it was written on.
Describing the numbers and letters that represent aspects of a canyon’s character. –by Adam Steel
Overall Difficulty Rating > An attempt to quantify all the various difficulties of a canyon, apart from the commitment and consequence ratings, into one simple rating.
E – Easy. Walking, no canyon rappel skills required. > (Example – Egypt 3)
M – Moderate. Walking, maybe some squeezing, with canyon rappel skills required. > (Example – Alcatraz)
D – Difficult. Physical fitness required due to one or more sections. Mae-westing, pothole escape techniques or cold water exposure are all potential elements. > (Examples – Shenanigans, the Squeeze, Kolob)
VD – Very Difficult. Difficulty increases in side-chimneying or pothole escape. > (Examples – Chambers, Wood, Trachyotomy)
ED1 – Extremely Difficult: Increased exposure to challenges. These canyons are more relentless, requiring more focus and fitness. They are characterized by high consequences and difficult movements. > (Example – Big Tony, Raven)
ED2 – The next level, and it goes on… Consequences Rating System > The Consequence Rating System does not take difficulty into account. It is an indication of what could happen if one were to fall. The Consequences Rating System follows the movie rating system:
G – Casual. The minimum amount of risk is assumed.
PG – A bit of a step up. Moves may be off the ground by a few feet. A fall could be expected to cause a minor injury like a sprained ankle.
PG13 – Moves are a bit higher off the ground, at or over head height.
R – Serious injury is a probable consequence of a fall from an R-Rated section.
X – A fall from an X-Rated section is expected to be fatal.
S-System > An attempt to grade the difficulties of stemming and mae-west canyons sections.
S0 – It’s a slot canyon, but there are no technical slot techniques required. > (Example – Egypt 3, Alcatraz)
S1 – Mandatory, straightforward technical slot maneuvers, without being too strenuous. > (Example – The final section of Shenanigans)
S2 – More strenuous or demanding technical mae-westing or chimneying. Possible slick surfaces and long elevators. Sometimes feels like 5.5-5.6 without a rope. > (Example – Chambers)
S3 – Difficult up-chimneying, difficult or sustained slot maneuvers required. 360 degree routefinding likely. > (Example – Big Tony, Raven)
S4 – Multiple strenuous upchimneys, sustained, difficult side-chimneying, likely presence of lichen on the walls. Similar to 5.8-5.9 in sections. > (Example – Sandthrax)
S5 – You can only imagine. > P-System > An attempt to grade the difficulties of canyon potholes. The grade represents the single most difficult pothole in the canyon.
P0 – Awkward, yet non-technical potholes, easily crossed without aid.
P1 – Potholes requiring a shoulder stand or pack toss to exit. > (Example – The Squeeze)
P2 – More advanced pothole exits required double shoulder stands, hooking, pack toss from a shoulder stand, etc, difficult pack toss. > (Example – Imlay)
P3 – What is this like? > Example – Poe?
> Complete Examples > Chambers, VD S2 I Shenanigans, D S1 III The Squeeze D P1 IV > Imlay D P2 V Woody, VD P2 II Sandthrax, ED2 S5X 5.8+ II > Possible>> Long Branch ED3 S6X IV
Other Possible Configurations:
High Water Med. Water Low Water > Imlay D P1 V VD P2 V D P2 V
The Squeeze D P1 IV D P2 V
AKA’s > Standard Kelsey > Big Tony Sleepy Hollow > DDI Middle Fork > Glaucoma Warm Springs Creek > Pandora’s Box Meek’s Mesa Slot > PINTAC East Fork > Tracheotomy Trachyte Slot Canyon > Tight Ass East Fork of Baker > NASTY ASS West Fork of Baker
> Unique Types of Difficulties in X Canyons
Consequences – For many sections of X-Canyons, including X-rated sections that many would call 5.8 or harder, you have no rope. Roped possibilities may exist, but they are not often employed. Failure to escape from a pothole, slipping and falling while high stemming, getting caught by a flash flood or succumbing to cold-water exposure are all possible fates in X-Canyons. Ability, competence and a willingness to take these risks are required.
Canyon Anchors > Canyon anchors are a distinct from rock climbing anchors, most notably in that the average trad climber would never willingly rappel from the average natural canyon anchor. Particularly in X-Canyons, which tend to be done by experienced canyoneers in areas with no-bolt ethics. Skill and comfort in building deadmen anchors, setting and releasing an Ibis hook and rappelling off of slings on bad rock are all examples of the types of anchors you will encounter in X-Canyons. Remember, it is not enough to know how to use what someone else built, because floods and flood debris often knock out established anchors, leaving the next party down with more work than they may have anticipated.
Pothole Escape > For the armchair or inexperienced canyoneer, imagine a regular, steel mixing bowl. Now imagine you, three inches tall, in the bottom of that bowl. No holds, no features. How would you escape? Now imagine you, at three inches, floating in water at the bottom of that bowl, two or more armlengths away from the rim. Now imagine that water is cold enough to reduce motor function (you can’t swim) in an hour or less. You can likely easily imagine the worst case result in any of these scenarios, and they all exist at different times of the year in various X-Canyons. Experience with pothole escape > techniques that do not damage the rock is key in passing through these sections with enough speed to keep yourself from getting benighted or worse.
Stemming and Mae-Westing > Stemming is the act of moving through a somewhat wide space by using your hands and feet on the opposite sides of the canyon. > Full body stemming is having both hands on one side, both feet on the other, stretching out your body to span the gap. > Mae-Westing is, essentially, side-chimneying, pressing your feet on one side of the canyon and your back against the other. The term Mae-West comes from one canyoneer, looking up from the bottom of a deep slot to the upper walls, each curving back, who felt like he was in Mae-West’s ample bosom. Stemming and Mae-Westing are relatively simple techniques at first that become more technical and strenuous as canyon grades increase. In X-Canyons, blowing a stem or a mae-west movement in an X-rated section will send you to a probable fatal fall.
Chimneys > One of the few canyoneering techniques you can practice at a crag. Like mae-westing or stemming, but going up. More strenuous on average than mae-westing. Multiple up chimneys in a canyon will seriously raise the difficulty.
Squeeze chimneys are up chimneys that are so tight that the climber can not use a feet-to-back technique. Other techniques, such as the frog or the sidewinder must be employed. Some people are squeeze chimney naturals, and others can’t climb squeeze chimneys even after a little practice. You won’t know which you are until you’re in one.
Off-Widths > The other canyoneering technique you can practice at the crag. Offwidth climbing as experienced at the crag is generally more brutal than that experienced in current X-Canyons, but only in length. > Chicken wings, arm bars, low bracing, knee jams and T-stacked feet are all techniques that will allow you to canyoneer more competently and, in a few cases, will be required to complete the canyon.
Lichen and Moss > An unsung difficulty in canyons, mae-westing and stemming can be made much more difficult by this easily underestimated complication. Experienced canyoneers have experienced double foot blowouts due to poor lichen management, so move cautiously on even easy terrain when lichened.
Reputation > Many X-Canyons have lingering or even recently earned reputations so fierce they seem to suffocate any who dare dream. A double edged sword that encourages caution and discourages attempts, reputation is mentioned here for awareness only as it seems to increase the difficulty of a canyon.
Rock Climbers Take Warning! > Canyoneering in X-Canyons involves climbing on rock, but it is not Rock Climbing. An X-Canyon has little to do with a sweet hand crack in Yosemite Valley and almost nothing to do with that blue route on the steep wall in your climbing gym. You may see YDS grades attached to canyons, but these often refer to squeeze chimneys, off-widths or chimney moves; these three types of climbing are the bastard children of common rock climbing and require techniques unknown or uncomfortable to the average rock climber. Even canyon anchor building requires a mental shift for the proficient, multi-pitch tradmaster. Canyoneering is a different sport with unique challenges and risks. Respect that difference and follow a progression. You will likely soon find yourself advancing quickly and grateful for the time you took to learn. >
Gordon
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, hank moon wrote:
> (e.g. body dimensions)
This is really important for some of us. The easy canyon walk-thorough example, Egypt 3, requires that I chimney over the narrowest section as I’m too thick through the chest to squeeze through. Zero Gravity is another easy canyon that gives me grief. I always read route descriptions with a jaundiced eye.
Gordon
RAM
Egypt 4 is even worse. North-south canyon and most oif the stemming is 80% or higher up in the canyon. Meltdown is quite possible there. UGH! https://picasaweb.google.com/aramv14/Egypt4#
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, hank moon wrote:
On Sat, May 21, 2011 at 11:23 AM, davewyo1 wrote:
> Another detail which can be unique to high stemming is the exposure to sunlight.
Ugh! Big Tony! >
hank moon
On Sat, May 21, 2011 at 11:23 AM, davewyo1 davewyo1@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Another detail which can be unique to high stemming is the exposure to sunlight.
Ugh! Big Tony!
davewyo1
How ’bout them dinner-plate sized hunks of rock that can “delaminate” from the walls as you go? Those make routine chimmneying a nightmare!
Wet or sandy canyon walls are similarly frightening on certain terrain.
Another detail which can be unique to high stemming is the exposure to sunlight.
Backpack management gets important too. The pack can’t be too big. You need to work out a good way to “dangle”, sling, or carry which doesn’t need constant readjustment. Like climbing, you have to not drop your stuff.
Dave
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, “RAM” wrote:
Adam Steel, who descended Sandthrax a few years back came up with some rating systems on his own, which included stemming, pothole ratings. > He also wrote a bit on the “Unique Types of Difficulties in X Canyons.” With his permission, I will share his views here. I HOPE it copies well from the document that it was written on.
Describing the numbers and letters that represent aspects of a canyon’s character. –by Adam Steel
Overall Difficulty Rating > An attempt to quantify all the various difficulties of a canyon, apart from the commitment and consequence ratings, into one simple rating.
E – Easy. Walking, no canyon rappel skills required. > (Example – Egypt 3)
M – Moderate. Walking, maybe some squeezing, with canyon rappel skills required. > (Example – Alcatraz)
D – Difficult. Physical fitness required due to one or more sections. Mae-westing, pothole escape techniques or cold water exposure are all potential elements. > (Examples – Shenanigans, the Squeeze, Kolob)
VD – Very Difficult. Difficulty increases in side-chimneying or pothole escape. > (Examples – Chambers, Wood, Trachyotomy)
ED1 – Extremely Difficult: Increased exposure to challenges. These canyons are more relentless, requiring more focus and fitness. They are characterized by high consequences and difficult movements. > (Example – Big Tony, Raven)
ED2 – The next level, and it goes on… Consequences Rating System > The Consequence Rating System does not take difficulty into account. It is an indication of what could happen if one were to fall. The Consequences Rating System follows the movie rating system:
G – Casual. The minimum amount of risk is assumed.
PG – A bit of a step up. Moves may be off the ground by a few feet. A fall could be expected to cause a minor injury like a sprained ankle.
PG13 – Moves are a bit higher off the ground, at or over head height.
R – Serious injury is a probable consequence of a fall from an R-Rated section.
X – A fall from an X-Rated section is expected to be fatal.
S-System > An attempt to grade the difficulties of stemming and mae-west canyons sections.
S0 – It’s a slot canyon, but there are no technical slot techniques required. > (Example – Egypt 3, Alcatraz)
S1 – Mandatory, straightforward technical slot maneuvers, without being too strenuous. > (Example – The final section of Shenanigans)
S2 – More strenuous or demanding technical mae-westing or chimneying. Possible slick surfaces and long elevators. Sometimes feels like 5.5-5.6 without a rope. > (Example – Chambers)
S3 – Difficult up-chimneying, difficult or sustained slot maneuvers required. 360 degree routefinding likely. > (Example – Big Tony, Raven)
S4 – Multiple strenuous upchimneys, sustained, difficult side-chimneying, likely presence of lichen on the walls. Similar to 5.8-5.9 in sections. > (Example – Sandthrax)
S5 – You can only imagine. > P-System > An attempt to grade the difficulties of canyon potholes. The grade represents the single most difficult pothole in the canyon.
P0 – Awkward, yet non-technical potholes, easily crossed without aid.
P1 – Potholes requiring a shoulder stand or pack toss to exit. > (Example – The Squeeze)
P2 – More advanced pothole exits required double shoulder stands, hooking, pack toss from a shoulder stand, etc, difficult pack toss. > (Example – Imlay)
P3 – What is this like? > Example – Poe?
> Complete Examples > Chambers, VD S2 I Shenanigans, D S1 III The Squeeze D P1 IV > Imlay D P2 V Woody, VD P2 II Sandthrax, ED2 S5X 5.8+ II > Possible>> Long Branch ED3 S6X IV
Other Possible Configurations:
High Water Med. Water Low Water > Imlay D P1 V VD P2 V D P2 V
The Squeeze D P1 IV D P2 V
AKA’s > Standard Kelsey > Big Tony Sleepy Hollow > DDI Middle Fork > Glaucoma Warm Springs Creek > Pandora’s Box Meek’s Mesa Slot > PINTAC East Fork > Tracheotomy Trachyte Slot Canyon > Tight Ass East Fork of Baker > NASTY ASS West Fork of Baker
> Unique Types of Difficulties in X Canyons
Consequences – For many sections of X-Canyons, including X-rated sections that many would call 5.8 or harder, you have no rope. Roped possibilities may exist, but they are not often employed. Failure to escape from a pothole, slipping and falling while high stemming, getting caught by a flash flood or succumbing to cold-water exposure are all possible fates in X-Canyons. Ability, competence and a willingness to take these risks are required.
Canyon Anchors > Canyon anchors are a distinct from rock climbing anchors, most notably in that the average trad climber would never willingly rappel from the average natural canyon anchor. Particularly in X-Canyons, which tend to be done by experienced canyoneers in areas with no-bolt ethics. Skill and comfort in building deadmen anchors, setting and releasing an Ibis hook and rappelling off of slings on bad rock are all examples of the types of anchors you will encounter in X-Canyons. Remember, it is not enough to know how to use what someone else built, because floods and flood debris often knock out established anchors, leaving the next party down with more work than they may have anticipated.
Pothole Escape > For the armchair or inexperienced canyoneer, imagine a regular, steel mixing bowl. Now imagine you, three inches tall, in the bottom of that bowl. No holds, no features. How would you escape? Now imagine you, at three inches, floating in water at the bottom of that bowl, two or more armlengths away from the rim. Now imagine that water is cold enough to reduce motor function (you can’t swim) in an hour or less. You can likely easily imagine the worst case result in any of these scenarios, and they all exist at different times of the year in various X-Canyons. Experience with pothole escape > techniques that do not damage the rock is key in passing through these sections with enough speed to keep yourself from getting benighted or worse.
Stemming and Mae-Westing > Stemming is the act of moving through a somewhat wide space by using your hands and feet on the opposite sides of the canyon. > Full body stemming is having both hands on one side, both feet on the other, stretching out your body to span the gap. > Mae-Westing is, essentially, side-chimneying, pressing your feet on one side of the canyon and your back against the other. The term Mae-West comes from one canyoneer, looking up from the bottom of a deep slot to the upper walls, each curving back, who felt like he was in Mae-West’s ample bosom. Stemming and Mae-Westing are relatively simple techniques at first that become more technical and strenuous as canyon grades increase. In X-Canyons, blowing a stem or a mae-west movement in an X-rated section will send you to a probable fatal fall.
Chimneys > One of the few canyoneering techniques you can practice at a crag. Like mae-westing or stemming, but going up. More strenuous on average than mae-westing. Multiple up chimneys in a canyon will seriously raise the difficulty.
Squeeze chimneys are up chimneys that are so tight that the climber can not use a feet-to-back technique. Other techniques, such as the frog or the sidewinder must be employed. Some people are squeeze chimney naturals, and others can’t climb squeeze chimneys even after a little practice. You won’t know which you are until you’re in one.
Off-Widths > The other canyoneering technique you can practice at the crag. Offwidth climbing as experienced at the crag is generally more brutal than that experienced in current X-Canyons, but only in length. > Chicken wings, arm bars, low bracing, knee jams and T-stacked feet are all techniques that will allow you to canyoneer more competently and, in a few cases, will be required to complete the canyon.
Lichen and Moss > An unsung difficulty in canyons, mae-westing and stemming can be made much more difficult by this easily underestimated complication. Experienced canyoneers have experienced double foot blowouts due to poor lichen management, so move cautiously on even easy terrain when lichened.
Reputation > Many X-Canyons have lingering or even recently earned reputations so fierce they seem to suffocate any who dare dream. A double edged sword that encourages caution and discourages attempts, reputation is mentioned here for awareness only as it seems to increase the difficulty of a canyon.
Rock Climbers Take Warning! > Canyoneering in X-Canyons involves climbing on rock, but it is not Rock Climbing. An X-Canyon has little to do with a sweet hand crack in Yosemite Valley and almost nothing to do with that blue route on the steep wall in your climbing gym. You may see YDS grades attached to canyons, but these often refer to squeeze chimneys, off-widths or chimney moves; these three types of climbing are the bastard children of common rock climbing and require techniques unknown or uncomfortable to the average rock climber. Even canyon anchor building requires a mental shift for the proficient, multi-pitch tradmaster. Canyoneering is a different sport with unique challenges and risks. Respect that difference and follow a progression. You will likely soon find yourself advancing quickly and grateful for the time you took to learn. >
hank moon
While ratings systems are questionable due to factors subjective (e.g. body dimensions) and objective (flood changes), this is a great, compact primer to the difficulties encountered in canyons. Well done – laminate and go!
p.s. Is Alcatraz harder than Shennany?
On Sat, May 21, 2011 at 10:37 AM, RAM adkramoo@aol.com> wrote:
> Adam Steel, who descended Sandthrax a few years back came up with some > rating systems on his own, which included stemming, pothole ratings. > He also wrote a bit on the “Unique Types of Difficulties in X Canyons.” > With his permission, I will share his views here. I HOPE it copies well from > the document that it was written on.
Describing the numbers and letters that represent aspects of a canyon’s > character. –by Adam Steel
Overall Difficulty Rating > An attempt to quantify all the various difficulties of a canyon, apart from > the commitment and consequence ratings, into one simple rating.
E – Easy. Walking, no canyon rappel skills required. > (Example – Egypt 3)
M – Moderate. Walking, maybe some squeezing, with canyon rappel skills > required. > (Example – Alcatraz)
D – Difficult. Physical fitness required due to one or more sections. > Mae-westing, pothole escape techniques or cold water exposure are all > potential elements. > (Examples – Shenanigans, the Squeeze, Kolob)
VD – Very Difficult. Difficulty increases in side-chimneying or pothole > escape. > (Examples – Chambers, Wood, Trachyotomy)
ED1 – Extremely Difficult: Increased exposure to challenges. These canyons > are more relentless, requiring more focus and fitness. They are > characterized by high consequences and difficult movements. > (Example – Big Tony, Raven)
ED2 – The next level, and it goes on… Consequences Rating System > The Consequence Rating System does not take difficulty into account. It is > an indication of what could happen if one were to fall. The Consequences > Rating System follows the movie rating system:
G – Casual. The minimum amount of risk is assumed.
PG – A bit of a step up. Moves may be off the ground by a few feet. A fall > could be expected to cause a minor injury like a sprained ankle.
PG13 – Moves are a bit higher off the ground, at or over head height.
R – Serious injury is a probable consequence of a fall from an R-Rated > section.
X – A fall from an X-Rated section is expected to be fatal.
S-System > An attempt to grade the difficulties of stemming and mae-west canyons > sections.
S0 – It’s a slot canyon, but there are no technical slot techniques > required. > (Example – Egypt 3, Alcatraz)
S1 – Mandatory, straightforward technical slot maneuvers, without being too > strenuous. > (Example – The final section of Shenanigans)
S2 – More strenuous or demanding technical mae-westing or chimneying. > Possible slick surfaces and long elevators. Sometimes feels like 5.5-5.6 > without a rope. > (Example – Chambers)
S3 – Difficult up-chimneying, difficult or sustained slot maneuvers > required. 360 degree routefinding likely. > (Example – Big Tony, Raven)
S4 – Multiple strenuous upchimneys, sustained, difficult side-chimneying, > likely presence of lichen on the walls. Similar to 5.8-5.9 in sections. > (Example – Sandthrax)
S5 – You can only imagine. > P-System > An attempt to grade the difficulties of canyon potholes. The grade > represents the single most difficult pothole in the canyon.
P0 – Awkward, yet non-technical potholes, easily crossed without aid.
P1 – Potholes requiring a shoulder stand or pack toss to exit. > (Example – The Squeeze)
P2 – More advanced pothole exits required double shoulder stands, hooking, > pack toss from a shoulder stand, etc, difficult pack toss. > (Example – Imlay)
P3 – What is this like? > Example – Poe?
> Complete Examples > Chambers, VD S2 I Shenanigans, D S1 III The Squeeze D P1 IV > Imlay D P2 V Woody, VD P2 II Sandthrax, ED2 S5X 5.8+ II > Possible>> Long Branch ED3 S6X IV
Other Possible Configurations:
High Water Med. Water Low Water > Imlay D P1 V VD P2 V D P2 V
The Squeeze D P1 IV D P2 V
AKA’s > Standard Kelsey > Big Tony Sleepy Hollow > DDI Middle Fork > Glaucoma Warm Springs Creek > Pandora’s Box Meek’s Mesa Slot > PINTAC East Fork > Tracheotomy Trachyte Slot Canyon > Tight Ass East Fork of Baker > NASTY ASS West Fork of Baker
Unique Types of Difficulties in X Canyons
Consequences – For many sections of X-Canyons, including X-rated sections > that many would call 5.8 or harder, you have no rope. Roped possibilities > may exist, but they are not often employed. Failure to escape from a > pothole, slipping and falling while high stemming, getting caught by a flash > flood or succumbing to cold-water exposure are all possible fates in > X-Canyons. Ability, competence and a willingness to take these risks are > required.
Canyon Anchors > Canyon anchors are a distinct from rock climbing anchors, most notably in > that the average trad climber would never willingly rappel from the average > natural canyon anchor. Particularly in X-Canyons, which tend to be done by > experienced canyoneers in areas with no-bolt ethics. Skill and comfort in > building deadmen anchors, setting and releasing an Ibis hook and rappelling > off of slings on bad rock are all examples of the types of anchors you will > encounter in X-Canyons. Remember, it is not enough to know how to use what > someone else built, because floods and flood debris often knock out > established anchors, leaving the next party down with more work than they > may have anticipated.
Pothole Escape > For the armchair or inexperienced canyoneer, imagine a regular, steel > mixing bowl. Now imagine you, three inches tall, in the bottom of that bowl. > No holds, no features. How would you escape? Now imagine you, at three > inches, floating in water at the bottom of that bowl, two or more armlengths > away from the rim. Now imagine that water is cold enough to reduce motor > function (you can’t swim) in an hour or less. You can likely easily imagine > the worst case result in any of these scenarios, and they all exist at > different times of the year in various X-Canyons. Experience with pothole > escape > techniques that do not damage the rock is key in passing through these > sections with enough speed to keep yourself from getting benighted or worse.
Stemming and Mae-Westing > Stemming is the act of moving through a somewhat wide space by using your > hands and feet on the opposite sides of the canyon. > Full body stemming is having both hands on one side, both feet on the > other, stretching out your body to span the gap. > Mae-Westing is, essentially, side-chimneying, pressing your feet on one > side of the canyon and your back against the other. The term Mae-West comes > from one canyoneer, looking up from the bottom of a deep slot to the upper > walls, each curving back, who felt like he was in Mae-West’s ample bosom. > Stemming and Mae-Westing are relatively simple techniques at first that > become more technical and strenuous as canyon grades increase. In X-Canyons, > blowing a stem or a mae-west movement in an X-rated section will send you to > a probable fatal fall.
Chimneys > One of the few canyoneering techniques you can practice at a crag. Like > mae-westing or stemming, but going up. More strenuous on average than > mae-westing. Multiple up chimneys in a canyon will seriously raise the > difficulty.
Squeeze chimneys are up chimneys that are so tight that the climber can not > use a feet-to-back technique. Other techniques, such as the frog or the > sidewinder must be employed. Some people are squeeze chimney naturals, and > others can’t climb squeeze chimneys even after a little practice. You won’t > know which you are until you’re in one.
Off-Widths > The other canyoneering technique you can practice at the crag. Offwidth > climbing as experienced at the crag is generally more brutal than that > experienced in current X-Canyons, but only in length. > Chicken wings, arm bars, low bracing, knee jams and T-stacked feet are all > techniques that will allow you to canyoneer more competently and, in a few > cases, will be required to complete the canyon.
Lichen and Moss > An unsung difficulty in canyons, mae-westing and stemming can be made much > more difficult by this easily underestimated complication. Experienced > canyoneers have experienced double foot blowouts due to poor lichen > management, so move cautiously on even easy terrain when lichened.
Reputation > Many X-Canyons have lingering or even recently earned reputations so fierce > they seem to suffocate any who dare dream. A double edged sword that > encourages caution and discourages attempts, reputation is mentioned here > for awareness only as it seems to increase the difficulty of a canyon.
Rock Climbers Take Warning! > Canyoneering in X-Canyons involves climbing on rock, but it is not Rock > Climbing. An X-Canyon has little to do with a sweet hand crack in Yosemite > Valley and almost nothing to do with that blue route on the steep wall in > your climbing gym. You may see YDS grades attached to canyons, but these > often refer to squeeze chimneys, off-widths or chimney moves; these three > types of climbing are the bastard children of common rock climbing and > require techniques unknown or uncomfortable to the average rock climber. > Even canyon anchor building requires a mental shift for the proficient, > multi-pitch tradmaster. Canyoneering is a different sport with unique > challenges and risks. Respect that difference and follow a progression. You > will likely soon find yourself advancing quickly and grateful for the time > you took to learn.
>