Yahoo Canyons Group

Dyneema – slings

Okay, so this is climbing related. Any opinion on using the dyneema runners on the placement of trad gear? The dyneema seems popular due to it’s weight and bulk advantages.

Neil

David Haavik haavikdavid@yahoo.com> wrote:

Good points. Spectra Daisy chains have always made me un easy. I watched a test on a spectra sling with a breaking stregth of 22kn break during a factor 1 fall (80kg mass droped 60cm on a 60cm sling). A nylon sling with a 22kn breaking stregth will hold the same drop.

Dave

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Message Details

Authorneil wilkinson
DateOctober 4, 2004
Discussion2 replies
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  • Hank Moon

    Note that Spectra/Dyneema slings were originally marketed for ice climbing due to minimal water absorption (i.e. “naturally dry”) . As Charly noted, the melting point of Spectra/Dyneema is quite low (300° F) and the so-called “critical point” is only 150 °F (point at which significant strength loss begins to occur).

    > Okay, so this is climbing related. Any opinion on using the dyneema runners on the placement of trad gear? The > dyneema seems popular due to it’s weight and bulk advantages.

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  • Charly Oliver

    I use Spectra/Dyneema runner for climbing almost exclusively. If you think about it, the “static” component in the system is really no different than a wired nut. There are other components in the system (stretching rope and bouncing belayer) that take care of shock absorbsion.

    Spectra/Dyneema slings are a valuable tool and should be part of any modern climbers kit. They just shouldn’t be used for a purpose not intended. (e.g. a canyoneers lanyard).

    Charly —–Original Message—– From: neil wilkinson [mailto:mtngoat59102@yahoo.com] Sent: Monday, October 04, 2004 8:57 PM To: Yahoo Canyons Group Subject: [from Canyons Group] Dyneema – slings

    Okay, so this is climbing related. Any opinion on using the dyneema runners on the placement of trad gear? The dyneema seems popular due to it’s weight and bulk advantages.

    Neil

    David Haavik haavikdavid@yahoo.com> wrote:

    Good points. Spectra Daisy chains have always made me un easy. I watched a test on a spectra sling with a breaking stregth of 22kn break during a factor 1 fall (80kg mass droped 60cm on a 60cm sling). A nylon sling with a 22kn breaking stregth will hold the same drop.

    Dave

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