how to double rope rap to single rope ascend? Revisited

* One person had suggested tying one end of the double rope to your harness and then > threading your ascenders through the other end to avoid ever having > the same section of rope rubbing against the rock. I found this to > work well and would probably add piece of mind if you were forced to > ascend in this situation. I used a shunt and a pirana for ascenders > and I also tried it with a Petzl hand ascender and a pirana, the hand > ascender is more convenient but it’s more to carry too.

What your friend has suggested could be very dangerous because although the rope might not be rubbing in the same location, The entire length of the now weighted rope will be pulled through the anchors at the top. I’ve seen some pretty sad looking rap rings in the backcountry that could wear and break if the right about of friction was applied. Every situation might require a different technique so having a vast arsinal of experiese with several techniques could prove to be very helpful. I suggest practice and the ACA workshop.

ps. The Petzle Gri-Gri works very well for ascending a single line and can easily be switched into rappel mode. About ¾ of the way up the mighty behunin rappel several large rocks started falling from the arch to the left of the canyon. Although I didn’t bail out I did need to let go of the ropes and pull myself away from the wall with my hands.

The Gri Gri does a great job of keeping you secure with no hands.

Thank you

Chris s. Raver

Web Systems Analyst

Dynix

craver@dynix.com

Phone: 801.223.5629

Fax: 801.223.5202

http://www.dynix.com

—–Original Message—– From: cabalisticfire [mailto:cabalisticfire@hotmail.com] Sent: Friday, May 30, 2003 7:56 AM To: Yahoo Canyons Group Subject: [from Canyons Group] how to double rope rap to single rope ascend? Revisited

Ok, so I took note of all of the suggestions and spent some time practicing yesterday. I found that I could easily just go back up the double rope using a shunt with either an atc or pirana. One key thing that I took from the discussion (having not done a lot of ascending in the past) is the danger factor with the rope potentially rubbing against sharp rock while you jug your way up. One person had suggested tying one end of the double rope to your harness and then threading your ascenders through the other end to avoid ever having the same section of rope rubbing against the rock. I found this to work well and would probably add piece of mind if you were forced to ascend in this situation. I used a shunt and a pirana for ascenders and I also tried it with a Petzl hand ascender and a pirana, the hand ascender is more convenient but it’s more to carry too. I didn’t spend to try ascending with one end tied off to an anchor but I noted what I’ll need to make it work. After that, I got hungry and decided to quit before I worked on the biner block method but I’ll probably get to that this weekend. I don’t think I’ve ever studied or practiced this hard for a vacation…

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