Kelsey”s book-bad ideas

I just recieved Kelsey’s new book in the mail and noticed that several bad ideas were present. I have had several long conversations with Mike over the past few weeks and he has told me that he has put away the g-pick. He told me that he only would use one in a real emergency. I did notice however that he did add a section to the book stating to use a g-pick or hooks only as a last resort. He still didn’t ommit the recommendations for using a g-pick in some of the route descriptions. A g-pick is mentioned for canyons such as the upper Butler and North Fork Trail Canyon (sorry, but these aren’t secret anymore after being in a guidebook-that is the only reason for broadbanding them). I have done these and others mentioned without a hook; none is needed so please don’t take one. I was hoping for something better out of this new guidebook; the technical advice is still poor. Most (all?)bolts put in with a cordless drill and purchased from a hardware store are useless and dangerous after not too much wear, no question about it. He does say to use natural anchors at all possible though (which is close to 100% of the time).

Another bad idea was inculding the closed canyons of the Navajo Nation. I have first hand information from the chapter house that the reason for the closure wasn’t because of the rescues in the canyons, but because some of the rescued people didn’t have permits to be there in the first place. Please stay out of these canyons, or they will never be opened, ever.

Beware of some of the canyons that Kelsey mentions that might be good, but he admiitedly hasn’t been through. I know that at least one of them could be very dangerous for the inexperienced. Seek beta from others before going down any of the difficult canyons.

Kelsey is a nice guy, and I have gone with him on several trips. Be aware that on all those trips, we never used a bolt kit once and in many cases, we didn’t leave any slings behind either. Kelsey although nice, is one odd dude, and is very quirky. This book is somewhat of an improvement on the ethical side, but still needs much, much, much better information on ethics. Notice that near the front of the book that he has his e-mail address and address. Please write a letter to him (without attacking him) and share your ideas on ethics that should be inculded in his next book. I don’t think we can talk him out of writing the book, but I think we should try to talk him out of promoting the bad ideas above. I honestly think that he will change his books if enough people respond.

One last thought. This is my opinion. Be carefull about who you share beta with and how you protray a certain canyon. Even if you preach ethics, ideas can be turned around. Steve Allen preaches eithics in his book (and does a pretty good job of it), however I have heard that the party who bolted up Segers Hole/The Sueeze did so (this is before Kelsey ever went through) because Steve said in his book “turn back because the obstacles become overwhelming below”. They took this as “to continue down canyon you need a bolt kit”. I have started to think latley that there are already enough guidebooks out there. I have written a few myself (2), but I don’t think I will anymore. There are enough canyons in the guidebooks (Steve Allen, Kelsey, Falcon, Steck, Butchardt, etc.) to keep canyoneers busy for years. I hope that the authors out there will leave at least some canyons to explore on our own. Probably wont happen.