We awoke to the rain and a glum mood. Ziff’s arrival brightened the mood a bit, but it was decided to stall rather than thrash through soaked alder and brush on the hike in. The day slipped away, with some sleep and photos taken of the forest. Finally in the late afternoon, we head up the hill. We are lucky to encounter a few parties having abandoned the area and hiking out. They sweep all the moisture off the brush and we arrive up high in mixed weather, but personally dry.
The pictures give the impression that it is a snowy and cold place, but the area is noted for its severe winters and us being so often in shorts gives it away…….the days are often warm and long. But not this time. For the first time in the 19 years up there, I see fresh snow just below the clouds, in the late afternoon gloom. We ditch our plan for Forbidden the next day and plan easier Sahale. Jenny decides to take that day off. A later wake up is allowed…….but….
I awake early as always and note that it has cleared and that the fresh snow, while present, is not nearly as pervasive as we expected. I wake Ziff. It’s decided. We switch plan again. Big mountain! Go there! Jenny lies snuggled in her bag listening. She sighs. She will not miss Forbidden’s classic West Ridge and knows he “day off” has vanished.
The snow on approach is hollow from avalanches. Deep runnels complicating passage. Fifty-five degree snow makes self arrest unlikely. Once on the ridge, the year’s unmelted snow makes north side bypasses on the ridge out of bounds. I head out and climb the first 1/3 of the ridge, asking to rope up just as the route goes mid 5th class. Up, an hour on top, then down and into camp by 7 PM. A classic day on a classic route, with great friends. Pictures?
http://picasaweb.google.com/aramv14/WestRidgeForbiddenJuly2010#