Yahoo Canyons Group

Styx Canyon – Anchor Quiz – What”s wrong with this pict

— In Yahoo Canyons Group, Tim Hoover wrote:
Looks to me like others have found the deficiencies I > would point out.
> I do not consider the lazy dog in the background to be > slacking. > Hell, if that anchor can’t hold Ryan then Ram can’t > either and why lose two at a time? Might as well save > him for the next time you need to test something.
Tim > Well I’d have to respectfully have to disagree.

If this is the first time someone has rappelled on this and it was me going over I’d want’em there at the ready to add some weight and friction should this not be as bomber as envisioned.

I can’t see from the photo if a loop has been tied in the webbing isolating each anchor point. The Piton is described as a “backup” not part of a system what are they backing up? Apparently there is a low level of confidence in the carin

But “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” is something worth considering

Another point is the angle the rappeller is putting on the anchor, but this doesn’t appear terribly fragile . You might consider a butt slide start though.

Matt

Message Details

AuthorMatt Maxon
DateMarch 5, 2008
Discussion1 replies
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  • adkramoo

    — In Yahoo Canyons Group, “Matt Maxon” wrote:

    > — In Yahoo Canyons Group, Tim Hoover wrote:

    Looks to me like others have found the deficiencies I

    would point out.

    I do not consider the lazy dog in the background to be

    slacking.

    Hell, if that anchor can’t hold Ryan then Ram can’t

    either and why lose two at a time? Might as well save

    him for the next time you need to test something.

    Tim

    > Well I’d have to respectfully have to disagree.

    If this is the first time someone has rappelled on this and it wasme > going over I’d want’em there at the ready to add some weight and > friction should this not be as bomber as envisioned.

    4th group going down that anchor in the week, as far as I know. What concerns me more about these monument style cairns is it makes it harder for folks to inspect the webbing. The more rocks and bigger rocks for big drops is in play here. The canyons biggest at 100 feet here? I will also comment that some people I respect change all webbing everytime, based on their experiences. FWIW. For me being required to tie all that webbing the week we were there would be more dangerous than inspect and go. But that’s just me.

    > I can’t see from the photo if a loop has been tied in the webbing > isolating each anchor point. The Piton is described as a “backup” not > part of a system what are they backing up?

    Guessing the piton came first

    Apparently there is a low > level of confidence in the carin

    Other way around? Low confidence in the piton so the cairn built? Not sure.

    > Another point is the angle the rappeller is putting on the anchor, but> this doesn’t appear terribly fragile . You might consider a butt slide> start though.

    The Crane is well versed in that method, being that we go off of meat so often and he is so meaty himself. After the picture posing, I’m sure he went to a knee, then a hip, pressed the rope down with his upper hand and slid gently into the night. R