My observations:
When rapping off a belay loop, the device is often rotated 90 degrees from the typical position, so that the braking line is down and to the front. As you get on rappel, if you are not paying attention, applying tension on the brake line before there is tension on the standing line can fold your device over your biner. This often results in the biner being cross loaded if you don’t fix it as you take tension on the standing line. Figure 8’s seem more susceptible to this, because with tube type devices, the tension on the brake line sucks the device up close to the biner and helps prevent said discombobulation. Figure 8’s in canyon mode also seem less susceptible.
If your main carabiner is large enough, there seems to be less potential for it to rotate when clipped through the leg loops and waist belt. With smaller biners, I have noticed that it is the gate catching on one of the two loops that flips it around. A large biner, like the DMM ones for example, has enough room below the gate that it interferes less. Screw gates also seem to cause less of a problem, because the locking portion is smaller, leaving more room below the screw, than an auto-locker.
Always pay attention, and don’t be stupid.
3 weeks ago a friend took a 6 foot fall in a canyon because he wasn’t paying attention. He was clipped in to an anchor right at the level of the lip. He clipped in standing up, and therefore had about 3 feet between his device and the anchor. He stepped back to get on rappel, but wasn’t paying attention, and stepped right over the edge with 1 foot. Because his other foot was still on the ledge, he went over backwards, and dropped about 6 feet. He hit his head, but was not injured because he was wearing a helmet. The rappel itself was only about 15 feet, but very rocky at the bottom. In this case, there was no serious injury, just some chafing from the crap in his pants. It could easily have been worse. Again, most importantly, always pay attention, and don’t be stupid.
Sherpa
Tom Jones
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, “Charly Oliver” wrote:
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, “Matt Smith” wrote:
> “When rapping off a belay loop, the device is often rotated 90 > degrees from the typical position, so that the braking line is down > and to the front.”
A good argument for using a canyoning harness instead of a climbing > harness. > Uh, I guess so. I use a 10mm aluminum rapide on my belay loop to change orientation 90 degrees when using a Pirana. Not really a problem when using an ATC.
Tom
Charly Oliver
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, “Matt Smith” wrote:
> “When rapping off a belay loop, the device is often rotated 90 degrees from the typical position, so that the braking line is down and to the front.”
A good argument for using a canyoning harness instead of a climbing harness.
> “If your main carabiner is large enough, there seems to be less potential for it to rotate when clipped through the leg loops and waist belt.”
In spite of the fact that every harness manufacturer in the world considers this improper use some people insist on continuing this practice. It is potentially dangerous and should be avoided at all costs.
> “Always pay attention, and don’t be stupid.”
Here, here!
> 3 weeks ago a friend took a 6 foot fall in a canyon because he wasn’t paying attention. He was clipped in to an anchor right at the level of the lip. He clipped in standing up, and therefore had about 3 feet between his device and the anchor. He stepped back to get on rappel, but wasn’t paying attention, and stepped right over the edge with 1 foot. Because his other foot was still on the ledge, he went over backwards, and dropped about 6 feet. He hit his head, but was not injured because he was wearing a helmet. The rappel itself was only about 15 feet, but very rocky at the bottom. In this case, there was no serious injury, just some chafing from the crap in his pants. It could easily have been worse.”
Can you say anchor failure? This is a strong argument for the inexperienced to use nylon core low stretch rope. These ropes have a greater capacity to absorb the energy exerted in this situation than 100% poly or spectra/poly ropes.
Don’t get me wrong. I’m a huge fan of poly and poly/spectra ropes. But if you are not accutely familiar with their limitations you’ve got no business using them.
Charly
Neil
Did you get that? Thought it should be said twice.
Lord Helmet
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, “Matt Smith” wrote:
My observations:
” … He hit his head, but was not injured because he was wearing a helmet.”
> Sherpa