I just got back to Boston after two amazing weeks in the canyons of Southern Utah, and my first, thoroughly terrifying, canyoneering emergency situation. Spent the first week of the trip in the southeast with six wonderful friends, playing in the gorgeous pools of Dark Canyon near the Sundance Trail, and then shot the narrows in Cheesebox and Fry Canyons. Two folks had to head home, and the rest of us headed for Zion. Of those remaining, three of us have done a small, but significant amount of canyoneering before, and the other two were newbies (though they proved tougher than nails). In Zion we first hiked through Keyhole Canyon, which was short but oh so sweet. Then we rented wetsuits for a spectacular romp through Pine Creek. The following day we dropped through Spry Canyon. Our final day out, I took the two newer canyoneers down Behunin while the other two experienced folks set out for Echo. I had been through Behunin before, and remembered it as a series of extremely fun, quite long rappels.
So now the story of our bad situation in Behunin: The sketchy situation arose after the second to last rappel when we could not pull our ropes. I had misjudged the length of that rap and tied my two 60m ropes together where only one was needed. I failed to check that the knot would pull without obstruction, and the knot caught on something. So there we were, at the top of a 50m free rappel with no ropes. I tied a prusik to the ropes and pulled it up with me while I tried to climb back up the rappel to loosen the rope, but the climb proved too difficult and too dangerous. I had no ascension equipment, so I tried to ascend using two prusiks and a makeshift etrier tied from extra webbing. However, my ropes were dynamic, and this made ascension a bouncy, practically impossible undertaking. After some freaking out and some thinking, we realized that since the previous rappel had only been 30m, we could cut the ends off the hanging ropes, tie them together and single-line down the final 50m free rap. None of us had ever belayed over a knot, so we spent a long time thinking through the situation, and decided to rap down until our brake hand hit the knot, then tighten a prusik above us, take the rope out of the ATC, put it back in below the knot, then release the prusik. The two less experienced were very worried that the would be unable to loosen the prusik with one hand, so they used a knife to cut it after they had locked their brake hand behind their back. They went down first, and both had pretty significant difficulty getting the rope out of their belay device, but got down to the ground okay and quite shaken. When I went down, my prusik didn’t catch, and I ended up with the knot on my ATC. Fortunately, they were able to swing me from below over to the cliff face, where I was able to hoist myself up enough to get the knot off the ATC and clip in below it. In the end, we all got down safely, though I lost two excellent ropes.
So, as I see it, I made the following errors: 1) Misjudged the length of the second to last rappel 2) Failed to make sure that we would be able to pull the knot over the lip of that second to last rappel 3) I was using dynamic ropes, making ascension horribly difficult. 4) Didn’t carry ascension equipment. I’ll be damned if you EVER see me in a canyon without it again.
I realize that I made a number of critical mistakes along the way, and I’ve learned a lot. I’m hoping that people might have some good suggestions as to what I could have done differently once we found ourselves in this predicament, and not just tell me I’m an idiot that should’ve brought ascenders. What might you have done differently had you been in the same situation, with the same gear that we were there with? I wonder if the method we came up with is standard for belaying over a knot? Are there other ways of doing it that don’t involve falling a short distance?
Finally, I’m sorry to whoever next descends that canyon, and finds our ropes dangling there uselessly. I’m also sorry to anyone who hiked up to the Emerald Pools and finds their view of Behunin Canyon scarred by my beautiful golden and blue ropes.
—
Ryan Clark MIT 54-1118 77 Massachusetts Ave. Cambridge, MA 02139 617-324-4104
—
Benny R
You live you learn, thanks for your post hopefully some of us newbies will take good note and be a little more careful and think twice before jumping into such situations. I would also say that Behunin, though straightforward, is not a “newbie” canyon in the same class of Pine or Mystery. The rope work requires another level of experience.
I got my rope stuck at this rappel too on my third canyon trip. We’d have been really screwed if a lot of hard shaking hadn’t made it come down, because we only had 1 rope and a pull cord and although i had ascenders, i’d never used them before, just read about it. I swore to never use a pull cord again, but since then I’ve realized its just a more “expert” technique… and i definitely should’ve had 2 60’s for that trip with its large number of long rappells.
After that experience i’ve practiced on prussiks, tiblocs, and handled ascenders in the most unneccesary of situations. Think of me at a 20 foot drop in a cave, swinging around and heaving and hoing on my prussiks (not having yet figured out the right length for foot loops, waist loops, or the right techniques for prussiking)… Josh yelling “What the heck are you doing! Ben? This thing is like 5. nothing! Just climb it!”
Since then I’ve gained confidence on any of the three ascenders in my arscenal, and its a good confidence to have in canyons.
Benny
gajslk
Look for a copy of “On Rope”, read and practice. It’s a great reference book for vertical work.
I use old dynamic ropes all the time when the drops are short and the canyons are easy(The only times I’ve ever had real trouble have been on short easy drops, so beware). I’d stick to statics if I was going to go buy canyoneering ropes. I would never ever use a climbing rope for canyons if I ever planned to climb on it again.
Practice knot passing in the backyard from a tree. The first time I rappelled past a knot using prusiks, it took me maybe 45 minutes. With a little practice, I’ve gotten it down to well under 5 minutes.
That knife thing was frightening. Those two are lucky to be alive. I always thought that the knife was for slitting your wrists when all hope was lost.
Gordon
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, Ryan Clark wrote: > I just got back to Boston after two amazing weeks in the canyons of
Stevee B
Great question! Size matters. 5mm & 6mm are most common. It’s worth it to experiment with different size cord on different size ropes, as you’ll find that some combos grip and some combos slip. Check out the Bachman knots as well.
Nice links: http://climbing.com/techtips/ttaid226/ http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/AscendRope.htm
Tibloc note: Make sure you use them with a round stock biner like a Petzl Attache or similar, to prevent nasty “slippage”.
Practice practice practice!
> One question for the gurus. I tend to go heavy while packing and have always taken tiblocks with me. I want to learn the prussik thing (I know the knot but have never used them) but wondering what size cord is recommended. Thanks
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Randi Poer
Thanks for sharing your story!!! How scary! It’s amazing how quickly seemingly trivial events can become complex. I’m happy that no one got hurt, and it sounds like you’re a wiser canyoneer for the experience. Your friends using a knife around a taught rope are lucky to be alive.
Something that helped me out tremendously when I first started out caving (which has similar rope techniques) is to hang a rope from the rafter in my garage. I downloaded info. off the net. I studied the pictures and pasted the instructions on the wall in huge bold letters where I could practice on rope while reading the step- by-step instructions.
Of course, the best method is to learn from a more experienced person if you can, but even with this, you should practice regulary ot “really” get to know your ropework.
I’ve uploaded PDF file on ropework to the group files section, which has good description of how to use a prussic, and how to pass knots. Hope this helps. Be careful out there!
~R
Ryan Clark rclark@mit.edu> wrote: I just got back to Boston after two amazing weeks in the canyons of Southern Utah, and my first, thoroughly terrifying, canyoneering emergency situation.
W.B.
On Jun 17, 2005, at 8:50 AM, Neil wrote:
> Yes, let the jihad continue. You’re right Bill, the rope wasn’t the > main problem. I would hope a thinking person could see how gear (such > as dynamic rope) could complicate things for those with less > experience. Seeing as how the advice handed around on this board is > distributed to 100’s of people I don’t know I will continue the jihad > that says, dynamic ropes are not a good first choice for canyoneering.
Well Neil, I agree with your last statement, they aren’t a good first choice (if one has a choice). But if they are the ropes you have, well then one should be prepared to ascend them if it becomes necessary. If one can’t then it’s not the ropes’ fault.
Guess I’m just not much of a gearhead, many kinds of (climbing or static, not hardware store) ropes will work fine for canyoneering with various advantages and disadvantages but the differences aren’t really that big of a deal for the most part (unless I have to carry it). Some are heavier or lighter, thicker or thinner, more or less durable, some more or less stretchy but they pretty much all work if one knows ropework. If one doesn’t, then perhaps some more knowledge is needed before setting out into the canyons. This isn’t a paint by numbers thing, some knowledge is required of the canyoneer. No rope is going to do the work of being prepared for you. Unless it would be that Elvish rope thing we saw on the video a few months ago. Now that would have solved Ryan’s problem.
I’m skeptical that the rope is the main problem here, but reasonable people can differ I guess. This whole “problem” arose because of lack of skills and experience. My bet (although I haven’t spoken with Ryan about this) is that Ryan hasn’t ascended a lot and after a few days canyoneering, exposure on the wall/ledge and a waiting party he wasn’t prepared to deal with many perceived difficulties ascending. Yes, you might blame that on the rope but I’m skeptical as to how that is the fault of the rope. A little stretch and bounce shouldn’t bother anyone who knows how to ascend. The “complication” is minimal.
Scott, regards your question I usually use 5 mm cord because I usually use 8mm ropes and it grips well. Not very strong though. To grip well your cord should be a bit smaller than your rope. I’ve also used 9/16 webbing with other knots and been happier with the cord. I agree with Neil’s advice about getting supple cord (so it grips better) and getting it from a reliable source (climbing shop). And that Tiblocs aren’t very heavy in the first place, but it never hurts to be prepared with multiple ways to ascend in case you drop some of them or need to outfit a partner or any other need.
-Bill
steve mestdagh
— Neil mtngoat59102@yahoo.com> wrote: > dynamic ropes are not a good first choice for canyoneering.
In most cases, this is true. The reasons I don’t use static is because I’d have to buy static ropes instead of using my retired climbing ropes.
In the cases we do bring a static it’s not mine. Scenario goes like this: My partner & I check out all the retired ropes hanging in my garage. I say “Yeah, we can take any of these. Hmmm. I always forget which one I retired from canyoneering to towing vehicles. Don’t worry, they’re all fine. Take your pick.” Hah!! Works every time. We bring his static ropes. -s
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neil wilkinson
Tiblocs are heavy? Anyway, 5-6mm depending on your rope, etc. Don’t get cord that is too stiff. You want something that has a supple hand. Your local rock shop should be able to point you in a good direction.
Neil
“scott c.” cardlaw22@yahoo.com> wrote: I tend to go heavy while packing and have always taken tiblocks with me. I want to learn the prussik thing (I know the knot but have never used them) but wondering what size cord is recommended. Thanks
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neil wilkinson
We where once able to get out of a canyon and pull our rope because one of our party members happened to bring a 100′ section of webbing. Many people would scoff at the foolishness of hauling ‘the extra weight’ but it saved us from having to come back and jumar our rope to retrieve it that day. If you’re willing to carry a few extra pounds it can be nice insurance to have. Sometimes doing long canyons with small groups doesn’t allow this luxury and this is another factor that drives the risks up and demands that your skill/luck level is higher and you don’t stick your ropes, sink them in a pool or any other foolishness that can occur while canyoning.
Neil
“scott c.” cardlaw22@yahoo.com> wrote: My only other suggestion coming from one with some but much less experience than those who contributed — carry more rope. If you have extra people, it never hurts to carry an extra rope. It adds to my comfort level.
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scott c.
One question as to the second to the last rap in Behunin. I was there last week and have done that rap two previous times to the left of the water course. I saw a note somewhere to stay in the water course and the rap/ rope pull would be easier. There is a sling around a chock stone in the water course and we, for the first time had little difficulty with pulling our rope. The rap to the left of the water course creates one nasty pull. Were you to the left of the water course or directly in the water course for that rap? Just wondering.
One question for the gurus. I tend to go heavy while packing and have always taken tiblocks with me. I want to learn the prussik thing (I know the knot but have never used them) but wondering what size cord is recommended. Thanks
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scott c.
This kind of information on this thread is why I joined. I printed the TR and the suggestions made by the gurus for me and my little group to review. My only other suggestion coming from one with some but much less experience than those who contributed — carry more rope. If you have extra people, it never hurts to carry an extra rope. It adds to my comfort level.
Neil
Yes, let the jihad continue. You’re right Bill, the rope wasn’t the main problem. I would hope a thinking person could see how gear (such as dynamic rope) could complicate things for those with less experience. Seeing as how the advice handed around on this board is distributed to 100’s of people I don’t know I will continue the jihad that says, dynamic ropes are not a good first choice for canyoneering.
Enjoy my holy war, Neil
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, “W.B.” wrote:
If on the other hand you are extending your jihad to all dynamic ropes…… The dynamic rope isn’t the problem here, it’s the skills of the person ascending that matter.
beadysee
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, Ryan Clark wrote: > I had no ascension equipment, > so I tried to ascend using two prusiks and a makeshift etrier tied from extra webbing.
Uhh, that is standard “ascension equipment”.
> However, my ropes were dynamic, and this made ascension > a bouncy, practically impossible undertaking.
No, your lack of experience and saavy, really.
Geez, 1000s and 1000’s of folks climb every year and ascend dynamic ropes with absolutely no problemo. Even before the Jumar was introduced in the US, folks used prusiks to ascend dynamic climbing ropes. Easy money. See the excellent movie “Vertical Frontier”, narrated by Tom Brokaw, for some great footage of especially wall climbers in Yosemite juggin’ ropes from all ages of climbing there. Pretty cool, not just for the jugging. As an aside, got to sit around the non-campfire a couple weeks ago in the City of Rocks with Allen Steck…wow…76, still climbing. I think maybe he’s had some experience juggin’ a dynamic rope with prussiks…! Ordeal by Piton indeed. Ahhh…thread drift…
And, really. The difference in elongation between static and dynamic ropes in most cases is insignificant with regards to ascending the rope.
Have you ever ascended a rope? Static or dynamic? With prusiks or standard mechanical ascenders? Then you’d know there ain’t much difference.
> The two less experienced were very worried that the would be unable to loosen the prusik with one hand, so they used a knife to cut it after they had locked their brake hand behind their back.
This about stopped my heart cold…
Wow. Foolish, and, lucky to be alive.
Yikes. No… YIKES!!!
Whew. Glad you’re O.K.
-Brian in SLC
worbly
Thanks to all who gave me some input. I really liked the “Heaps”-style suggestion, and suggestions about ways to make sure a fisherman’s knot will be able to be pulled. I intend to keep practicing ascending with and without mechanical ascenders. I’ve tried ascending dynamic ropes with prussiks a few time, and I’ve never had any success, but it sounds like it can be done, so I’ve got work to do. But first things first — I need new ropes.
steve mestdagh
— Ryan Clark rclark@mit.edu> wrote: > not just tell me I …. should’ve brought ascenders
Ryan, thanks for the TR!
Prussiks are ascenders. Just not mechanical ascenders. Climbers ascend dynamic ropes all the time. Prussiks are still common for emergency situations. Mechanical ascenders are too heavy to carry in canyoneering, or climbing, unless you really think you’ll need them.
Good job getting out of there! -s
W.B.
On Jun 16, 2005, at 6:19 PM, neil wilkinson wrote:
> Ryan,
Well, I think you realize that your gear choices contributed to the > problem. Some people on this board think its okay to canyoneer > with retired dynamic half-ropes. I got kinda laughed at for > vigorously shunning this endorsement.
Not only some people think it’s ok, a lot of people with many years of experience canyoneering and specifically many years of canyoneering with half ropes. Myself, I’ve never had a half (or any dynamic rope for that matter) make it impossible to ascend (or descend for that matter). Just slightly slower sometimes and with more potential for rubbing and abrasion. Besides, I didn’t see anywhere where half ropes were mentioned by Ryan here. If on the other hand you are extending your jihad to all dynamic ropes…… The dynamic rope isn’t the problem here, it’s the skills of the person ascending that matter.
I don’t understand Ryan’s original problem unless he did not know how to effectively ascend with minimal equipment. If you have both ends of the ropes and your anchor and knot above is secure and you can rig ascenders (mechanical or knots) then you have all you need to ascend back up with a reasonable degree of safety, pretty much as safe as rapping down in the first place. Dynamic rope is a minor issue unless rubbing/abrasion is a severe problem. It’s more slightly more awkward to ascend dynamic ropes because of the stretch and bounce but not impossible by any means.
Ryan, can I assume you have not ascended much especially on dynamic ropes? Believe me, I first learned how to ascend on a half rope single strand free-hanging that ended over a large rounded lip so I can understand from personal experience if you had some trouble at first. I pretty much thought it was difficult, frustrating and extremely time consuming (and almost impossible) the first time too, but later dialed it in. It sounds like you had all you needed with you except enough experience ascending and time to perfect your technique. Ascending a rope seems difficult until you master the technique, then you wonder why you had so much trouble in the first place.
Others have given some good suggestions for what to do once you’ve decided to cut the ropes. I would recommend that before you take that drastic step in the future you practice getting the ropes down in one piece first.
I would first suggest ascending practice with the ropes you normally use and minimal equipment. Practice both single and double rope with a belay for safety. Using a dynamic rope may actually help you develop smooth ascending technique as you minimize bounce. Prussiks or other knots will work fine and actually I suggest you always carry them (meaning have the ability to improvise them) anyway. If you can dial your technique in with minimal equipment you will be fine when you have more. Second, get into the habit of looking for knot-eating obstructions and practice having the last person move the knot down over the obstruction . Third, as you noted make it a habit for the first person to do a test pull. Fourth, knots (especially dbl. fishermans) stick. If you have enough rope at the bottom pull one of them down before you send the rest of the party down and that way you can avoid having the knot potentially sticking at all.
Don’t feel bad about leaving the ropes, you have donated booty to the next party and done it in the best place, right near the end so they don’t have to carry it far to bring it home and add to their collection. Congratulations on surviving another day to learn more. You made a few minor mistakes but everybody is ok and you’re seeking to learn from your experience and avoid these mistakes in the future. Seems admirable to me. By the way, I have to endorse “Youth”‘s warning about knives next to loaded ropes or webbing, try to avoid it if you can especially if you are going to fall after you cut the sling. There are releasable knots (mariners) and the footloop solution to avoid this.
-Bill
neil wilkinson
Ryan,
Well, I think you realize that your gear choices contributed to the problem. Some people on this board think its okay to canyoneer with retired dynamic half-ropes. I got kinda laughed at for vigorously shunning this endorsement. Maybe your story will serve my point with a little vindication. You are all home safe so that is the most important thing. Since I was not there I’m not going to arm chair quarterback too much.
A thought. Allowing your less experienced friends to lock off rappel below the knot would have allowed you to lower them off the anchor until the end of the rope touched ground. This would have only required one of you to pass the knot.
There are many approaches to knot passing. If you had placed a second prussic above the knot joining the ropes with a foot loop attached you could step up in the foot loop, remove the above weighted prussic and lower yourself down gently on your rap device. Knot passing & ascending is something every canyoneer should practice in a controlled environment in case you find yourself in a similar circumstance some day. In my mind the biggest lesson that should be taken away from this is the need to practice critical skills prior to really needing them.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
Neil
Ryan Clark rclark@mit.edu> wrote: I realize that I made a number of critical mistakes along the way, and I’ve learned a lot. I’m hoping that people might have some good suggestions as to what I could have done differently once we found ourselves in this predicament, and not just tell me I’m an idiot that should’ve brought ascenders.
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restrac2000
The two less > experienced were very worried that the would be unable to loosen the > prusik with one hand, so they used a knife to cut it after they had > locked their brake hand behind their back.
Could have done a “Heaps” style lower here, have newbies tie into rope below knot and lower them neccessary amount and then have them rappel last bit. I reccomend avoiding using a knife around taut rope at all cost, it is amazing to see how little it takes to cut you life line! One should be able to tie off in such a way to free both hands during a chageover that this requires.
Fortunately, they were able to swing me from below over to the > cliff face, where I was able to hoist myself up enough to get the knot > off the ATC and clip in below it. In the end, we all got down safely, > though I lost two excellent ropes.
The obvious bit is to train passing a knot while at home from advice or information from books or better yet proper instruction from a climbing or canyoneering class. Don’t dynamically load your prussik when possible(can’t infer from your article if that is what you did), you should use your brake hand and device to stop you well before the knot, anticipate some stretch and slowly load your prussik. Rope on rope friction is best avoided. Being overly aware of your actions in situations is important yet difficult but bad situations easily get worse as you found out.
People often rely upon mechanical ascenders yet prusiks for everyone do just as well if not better in certain situations. People forget to bring slings for everyone as well, you can improvise this in canyon, but it sure helps and really doesn’t weigh or cost much. The can make great etriers, ascending knots, etc, etc, etc.
Knowledge and experience will be you best tools. Cliche over.
“Youth”