I know that the one sided figure-8 EDK is rather untrustworthy, but I was wondering, what do people think about using a rethreaded figure-8 to join two ropes (using the 2nd rope to “rethread”)? Any better/worse than the overhand EDK?
Jeff
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j b
> Why? Some reason to avoid the EDK; or the double > fishermans, if all > members of your party are over 50?
Not exactly sure if this is a question waiting for an answer, but . . .
was taught that the rethread figure eight was a good knot in a climbing class. Easy to tie, easy to check, and easy to untie, so we generally used it rather than a double fishermans. I have no reason to avoid the EDK, it’s just that it was unfamiliar until the last couple months.
Jeff
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Tom Jones
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, neil wilkinson wrote: > Who was it that did the pull tests on EDK’s a couple years back? I thought the double EDK actually caused the rope to experience catastrophic failure prior to the knot rolling free. (even wet or icy)
Neil >
You probably mean Tom Moyer’s testing page:
http://www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/
You’ll have to clarify your other question. Double EDK? If you back up an EDK in almost any way (such as another EDK), it will prevent the EDK from rolling – in which case the rope breaks at some high value.
A Figure-8 EDK, in some circumstances will also roll, although easily locked with a second EDK knot.
There is some dispute over under which conditions an EDK and/or a Figure-8 EDK will roll – a discussion unencumbered by any really meaningful test data.
Tom
Tom Jones
A re-thread Figure 8 (aka Flemish Bend) is really strong, but also has a tendency to come untied if the rope is not quite supple. One of the worst that way, for the same reason it is one of the strongest.
Also big and clunky.
Why? Some reason to avoid the EDK; or the double fishermans, if all members of your party are over 50?
Tom
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, “Charly Oliver” wrote: > Worse in my opinion. Although a rethread figure 8 is very strong it still presents a profile that tends to snag or catch. The whole point of the overhand EDK is to avoid this possibility.
Charly
>
tom
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, neil wilkinson wrote: > Who was it that did the pull tests on EDK’s a couple years back? I thought the double EDK actually caused the rope to experience catastrophic failure prior to the knot rolling free.
I think it was these bushwalkin’ dudes from down under: The info is in the report, download the pdf.
http://www.bwrs.org.au/research/index.html
-tom-
neil wilkinson
Who was it that did the pull tests on EDK’s a couple years back? I thought the double EDK actually caused the rope to experience catastrophic failure prior to the knot rolling free. (even wet or icy)
Neil
Charly Oliver charlybldr@mindspring.com> wrote: Worse in my opinion. Although a rethread figure 8 is very strong it still presents a profile that tends to snag or catch. The whole point of the overhand EDK is to avoid this possibility.
Charly
—–Original Message—– From: j b [mailtoofr2004@yahoo.com] Sent: Monday, January 24, 2005 3:08 PM To: Yahoo Canyons Group Subject: [from Canyons Group] tying two ropes together
I know that the one sided figure-8 EDK is rather untrustworthy, but I was wondering, what do people think about using a rethreaded figure-8 to join two ropes (using the 2nd rope to “rethread”)? Any better/worse than the overhand EDK?
Jeff
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Charly Oliver
Worse in my opinion. Although a rethread figure 8 is very strong it still presents a profile that tends to snag or catch. The whole point of the overhand EDK is to avoid this possibility.
Charly
—–Original Message—– From: j b [mailtoofr2004@yahoo.com] Sent: Monday, January 24, 2005 3:08 PM To: Yahoo Canyons Group Subject: [from Canyons Group] tying two ropes together
I know that the one sided figure-8 EDK is rather untrustworthy, but I was wondering, what do people think about using a rethreaded figure-8 to join two ropes (using the 2nd rope to “rethread”)? Any better/worse than the overhand EDK?
Jeff
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When you post, please change the Subject appropriately, to make reading and searching easier. You can use the following abbreviations: TRIP = Trip Report; BETA = Canyon Beta; PARTNER = Partner and/or Rides; ETHICS = Ethics; TECH = Technical Questions and Tips; BIZ = E Group Business; SALE = Stuff for Sale. Please use a Tilde ~ after the abbreviation, so we know you are coding for us, such as:
Subject: BIZ~ New Abbreviation List – working?
Bombastic Bolt Debates are allowed to only a limited extent. Folks should go to the Canyoneer Group for a truly un-moderated forum. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/canyoneer
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beadysee
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, j b wrote: > I know that the one sided figure-8 EDK is rather > untrustworthy, but I was wondering, what do people > think about using a rethreaded figure-8 to join two > ropes (using the 2nd rope to “rethread”)? Any > better/worse than the overhand EDK?
Yep. Worse. More bulky. A better bulky knot might be the double fisherman’s.
Make mine an EDK for standard rappels.
I think if I was jugging or fixing ropes or passing knots, I’d go with follow through of a figure eight on a bite…to have a loop to clip into if need be.
Brian in SLC