Yahoo Canyons Group

Was: Replacing HUGE Rapides, Is: carabiners for blocks.

By tom · July 9, 2007

— In Yahoo Canyons Group, “beadysee” wrote:

> The more important dimension, IMHO, is the inside length. Agreed!

> I blocked a 10mm with a biner which fit just fine cross ways. But, > under a slight shock load, flipped around and went right through. > Was a smaller biner, though (Neutrino). 8mm rope, I seem to recall.

I think it should be stressed that using a small, non-locking carabiner for a block is just asking for trouble. It has more of a chance of flipping around and passing through a reasonably sized rapide, can come “unclipped”, and since the cross-section is smaller it will be harder to cinch down the clove hitch. I know Brian was just ‘testing’ but no harm in stating this.

-tom (w)

Message Details

Authortom
DateJuly 9, 2007
Discussion2 replies
View original ↗
  • hank moon
    19 years ago Reply

    On 7/9/07, beadysee beadysee@yahoo.com> wrote: > Hank, you know the rope bearing surface of an Attache? Or, the cross > section? I couldn’t find on the Petzl site. Attache isn’t a huge > carabiner.

    Attache made from 12mm rod stock….

  • beadysee
    19 years ago Reply

    — In Yahoo Canyons Group, “tom” wrote: > I think it should be stressed that using a small, non-locking > carabiner for a block is just asking for trouble. It has more of a > chance of flipping around and passing through a reasonably sized > rapide, can come “unclipped”, and since the cross-section is smaller > it will be harder to cinch down the clove hitch. I know Brian was just > ‘testing’ but no harm in stating this.

    Rope bearing surface of a Neutrino is 9.4mm. My bet is that it is very close to a Petzl Attache (comparing to a BD pearabiner which is 12.0mm, which I think might be pretty similar). Of course that number probably comes from the bottom basket, but, the Neutrino carries that width flare up through the spine of the biner.

    I don’t notice a difference in getting a clove hitch to set between the two biners myself. I use a clove hitch on a neutrino quite often, no problemo. But, you’re correct, I’d never advocate using one for a biner block as you can’t lock it. Maybe two with the gates reversed?

    Hank, you know the rope bearing surface of an Attache? Or, the cross section? I couldn’t find on the Petzl site. Attache isn’t a huge carabiner.

    Neat chart on BD biners here:

    http://www.bdel.com/gear/detail/neutrino_detail.php

    -Brian in SLC