— In Yahoo Canyons Group, “davewyo1”
We can pick out the better procedures for ourselves… > > Dave
In this thread the best advice for anyone who may have difficulties distinguishing is to listen to Dean. If I ever have difficulties in a canyon, he’s the guy I want by my side.
Randi
Why not prussics? One of the things I like about the idea of using prussics is that you can improvise with bits of cordage & slings if you need too. Is this true? Â My daughter and I were given instruction once, but it’s been so long now, I’ve forgotten. We were with Eshed Bootel (before the accident) and he set us up with this impossibly easy prussic arrangement, & instruction, which had us flying up a free hanging drop, and easily changing over from ascending to descending. Â Â Â — On Tue, 6/23/09, Rich Carlson rcwildone@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: Rich Carlson rcwildone@yahoo.com> Subject: [from Canyons Group] Re:What would you do?……was Man survives 100-foot fall, To: Yahoo Canyons Group Date: Tuesday, June 23, 2009, 9:04 AM
For a beginner — Ropeman Ropeman Ropeman
Tiblocs are cool, but problematic for people who have not practiced and mastered them. Spring loaded, the Ropeman is much more user-friendly.
— In canyons@yahoogroups .com, “Tom Jones” wrote:
Tiblocs tiblocs tiblocs.
Small, light, not-entirely- expensive. Work pretty good. They require a fat, round-bar-stock carabiner to use on 8mm rope, and some care in use.
Oh and… how do you jug up the first rope in Engelstead?
practice, practice, practice…
Tom
— In canyons@yahoogroups .com, Randi wrote:
I’ve not ascended out of Englestead, but I’ve ascended 300′ before.
With the proper equipment, and training it’s not hard, just tiring if you’re not used to it. I use a caver’s set up (frog system), which consists of two ascenders – one at waist level, and a handled ascender which slides up the rope and arms length and has foot loops attached. You use a sit-stand motion and it’s fairly efficient for ascending.
Â
I don’t usually carry this gear through canyons though, and I’m not versed in ascending with prussic. I need to learn to improvise using cords and what-not. All of us in canyons really should have basic first aid, at lease self rescue, and ascending skills.
>
Rich Carlson
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, “homegrown6” wrote:
I am just curious, has anyone in the group here ascended back out of Englestead before? Rich, do you do that in any of your advanced classes? That would be quite a challenge.
Nick >
I’m installing an ascending treadmill in the shop. You’re welcome to use it anytime. You coming back to SUU in the fall?
adkramoo
While the episode is called “Who mourns for Adonis?”, the main character and only present God figure, is Apollo. Is not he a God of War perhaps? 😉 No matter….he was alone for not having moved forward and living in the past. Of note, the other Gods, Zeus and company did not assign a “watch dog” commission to make sure that Apollo was behaving himself. I suppose Gods allow each other to be themselves. While Phillip’s and Randi’s comments ring very true, I believe credit is due all the players. While there is a history of conflict here and pointed little jabs were fired off, the topic was the focus and even though disagreeing in places, it remained civil, while passionate. Based on history, this is no small feat and I praise all the participants. Wonderful topic. Perhaps someone else would like to propose a scenario? Thinking these things through in the arm chair might just help us in the field one day. Ram
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, “restrac2000” wrote:
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, “Lee Eismann” wrote:
Personally, I liken these “Rich & Lee” conflicts, that you allude to, with one of my favorite ST episodes, “Who Mourns for Adonis?”, where Rich plays the role of the Greek god, Adonis.
I’m sure those of you who are in the know will see the connection and understand this comparison.
And for those who don’t, you’ll probably be content in gathering your laurel leaves.
I’m not an ST junkie so I had to look it up.
“Adonis”: Please tell me we are not comparing Rich to the Greek god of fertility. Shivers, shivers.
Was Adonis is this episode or are we talking about Apollo? Having not seen it, and knowing the reputation of Wikipedia ( http://tinyurl.com/ns7a9d ), I am curious.
Might recommend a more modest and constructive approach if you want people to buy into your evaluation of the situation, assuming you are trying to be less than “adonis” yourself. It really doesn’t take someone is the know to figure out there is some antagonism and history between the two of you. While I can see your comparison of Rich in this episode, I know enough of the history to understand you are no Captain Kirk or Spock in this relationship. The proposed “allegiance” you suppose Rich demands is also evident in yourself through the comment “and for those who don’t, you’ll probably be content in gathering your laurels” (Clearly you are running with the theme, but the irony of the statement is thick). No leaving much room for people to feel comfortable in the middle ground of their own self assessment are you? (Reminds me alot of the bushism, “you are either with us, or against us” from years past).
I see a fairly accurate comparison posed by Dave (one more universal than I would like to admit) that contains some valuable insight. In yours, I see a not so humble deflection.
My own personal feedback, Rich and Lee take the not so subtle jabs and antagonism sideband before it poisons the thread, and I do believe there is great value in this one.
Take Care,
Phillip >
Rich Carlson
For a beginner — Ropeman Ropeman Ropeman
Tiblocs are cool, but problematic for people who have not practiced and mastered them. Spring loaded, the Ropeman is much more user-friendly.
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, “Tom Jones” wrote:
Tiblocs tiblocs tiblocs.
Small, light, not-entirely-expensive. Work pretty good. They require a fat, round-bar-stock carabiner to use on 8mm rope, and some care in use.
Oh and… how do you jug up the first rope in Engelstead?
practice, practice, practice…
Tom
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, Randi wrote:
I’ve not ascended out of Englestead, but I’ve ascended 300′ before.
With the proper equipment, and training it’s not hard, just tiring if you’re not used to it. I use a caver’s set up (frog system), which consists of two ascenders – one at waist level, and a handled ascender which slides up the rope and arms length and has foot loops attached. You use a sit-stand motion and it’s fairly efficient for ascending.
Â
I don’t usually carry this gear through canyons though, and I’m not versed in ascending with prussic. I need to learn to improvise using cords and what-not. All of us in canyons really should have basic first aid, at lease self rescue, and ascending skills.
>
Tom Jones
Tiblocs tiblocs tiblocs.
Small, light, not-entirely-expensive. Work pretty good. They require a fat, round-bar-stock carabiner to use on 8mm rope, and some care in use.
Oh and… how do you jug up the first rope in Engelstead?
practice, practice, practice…
Tom
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, Randi wrote:
I’ve not ascended out of Englestead, but I’ve ascended 300′ before. > With the proper equipment, and training it’s not hard, just tiring if you’re not used to it. I use a caver’s set up (frog system), which consists of two ascenders – one at waist level, and a handled ascender which slides up the rope and arms length and has foot loops attached. You use a sit-stand motion and it’s fairly efficient for ascending. >  > I don’t usually carry this gear through canyons though, and I’m not versed in ascending with prussic. I need to learn to improvise using cords and what-not. All of us in canyons really should have basic first aid, at lease self rescue, and ascending skills. >
Randi
I’ve not ascended out of Englestead, but I’ve ascended 300′ before. With the proper equipment, and training it’s not hard, just tiring if you’re not used to it. I use a caver’s set up (frog system), which consists of two ascenders – one at waist level, and a handled ascender which slides up the rope and arms length and has foot loops attached. You use a sit-stand motion and it’s fairly efficient for ascending.  I don’t usually carry this gear through canyons though, and I’m not versed in ascending with prussic. I need to learn to improvise using cords and what-not. All of us in canyons really should have basic first aid, at lease self rescue, and ascending skills.
— On Tue, 6/23/09, Tom Jones ratagonia@gmail.com> wrote:
From: Tom Jones ratagonia@gmail.com> Subject: [from Canyons Group] Re:What would you do?……was Man survives 100-foot fall, To: Yahoo Canyons Group Date: Tuesday, June 23, 2009, 7:45 AM
— In canyons@yahoogroups .com, “homegrown6” wrote:
I am just curious, has anyone in the group here ascended back out of > Englestead before? Rich, do you do that in any of your advanced > classes? That would be quite a challenge.
Nick >
One of our other guides and checked it out for guiding. There is a clean shot downcanyon on the left about 1/4 mile. We dropped a 600′ rope there, rebelayed on a ledge 300′ down, then rapped to the canyon floor. Then climbed that rope (2×300′ climbs), walked to the head, rapped the first sequence in Engelstead and climbed back out the rope.
Once you wrap your head around it, jugging ropes is not that hard. A good skill to learn and practice on a regular basis, so that climbing the rope is not a “problem”, when it need to be done. There is not anything particularly difficult about the Engelstead jug, either at the head or at the tree downcanyon left 50 feet.
BUT – setting up ropes for jugging is somewhat different than setting them up for rappelling. Greater care should be taken in assessing wear spots and setting up to avoid them. AND, for this, we used 9mm ropes both to increase confidence in the process, and so that the ropes would not get gobi’d in the process.
Tom
Randi
Phillip, wow, your post is so insightful and spot on. Thanks. I really like the way you worded it. You come across very thoughtful and wise. Â
— On Tue, 6/23/09, restrac2000 Happyfeet00@Hotmail.com> wrote:
From: restrac2000 Happyfeet00@Hotmail.com> Subject: [from Canyons Group] Re:What would you do?……was Man survives 100-foot fall, To: Yahoo Canyons Group Date: Tuesday, June 23, 2009, 8:38 AM
— In canyons@yahoogroups .com, “Lee Eismann” wrote:
Personally, I liken these “Rich & Lee” conflicts, that you allude to, with one of my favorite ST episodes, “Who Mourns for Adonis?”, where Rich plays the role of the Greek god, Adonis.
I’m sure those of you who are in the know will see the connection and understand this comparison.
And for those who don’t, you’ll probably be content in gathering your laurel leaves. >
I’m not an ST junkie so I had to look it up.
“Adonis”: Please tell me we are not comparing Rich to the Greek god of fertility. Shivers, shivers.
Was Adonis is this episode or are we talking about Apollo? Having not seen it, and knowing the reputation of Wikipedia ( http://tinyurl. com/ns7a9d ), I am curious.
Might recommend a more modest and constructive approach if you want people to buy into your evaluation of the situation, assuming you are trying to be less than “adonis” yourself. It really doesn’t take someone is the know to figure out there is some antagonism and history between the two of you. While I can see your comparison of Rich in this episode, I know enough of the history to understand you are no Captain Kirk or Spock in this relationship. The proposed “allegiance” you suppose Rich demands is also evident in yourself through the comment “and for those who don’t, you’ll probably be content in gathering your laurels” (Clearly you are running with the theme, but the irony of the statement is thick). No leaving much room for people to feel comfortable in the middle ground of their own self assessment are you? (Reminds me alot of the bushism, “you are either with us, or against us” from years past).
I see a fairly accurate comparison posed by Dave (one more universal than I would like to admit) that contains some valuable insight. In yours, I see a not so humble deflection.
My own personal feedback, Rich and Lee take the not so subtle jabs and antagonism sideband before it poisons the thread, and I do believe there is great value in this one.
Take Care,
Phillip
restrac2000
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, “Lee Eismann” wrote:
Personally, I liken these “Rich & Lee” conflicts, that you allude to, with one of my favorite ST episodes, “Who Mourns for Adonis?”, where Rich plays the role of the Greek god, Adonis.
I’m sure those of you who are in the know will see the connection and understand this comparison.
And for those who don’t, you’ll probably be content in gathering your laurel leaves. >
I’m not an ST junkie so I had to look it up.
“Adonis”: Please tell me we are not comparing Rich to the Greek god of fertility. Shivers, shivers.
Was Adonis is this episode or are we talking about Apollo? Having not seen it, and knowing the reputation of Wikipedia ( http://tinyurl.com/ns7a9d ), I am curious.
Might recommend a more modest and constructive approach if you want people to buy into your evaluation of the situation, assuming you are trying to be less than “adonis” yourself. It really doesn’t take someone is the know to figure out there is some antagonism and history between the two of you. While I can see your comparison of Rich in this episode, I know enough of the history to understand you are no Captain Kirk or Spock in this relationship. The proposed “allegiance” you suppose Rich demands is also evident in yourself through the comment “and for those who don’t, you’ll probably be content in gathering your laurels” (Clearly you are running with the theme, but the irony of the statement is thick). No leaving much room for people to feel comfortable in the middle ground of their own self assessment are you? (Reminds me alot of the bushism, “you are either with us, or against us” from years past).
I see a fairly accurate comparison posed by Dave (one more universal than I would like to admit) that contains some valuable insight. In yours, I see a not so humble deflection.
My own personal feedback, Rich and Lee take the not so subtle jabs and antagonism sideband before it poisons the thread, and I do believe there is great value in this one.
Take Care,
Phillip
Dean Kurtz
>I am just curious, has anyone in the group here ascended back out of >Englestead before? Rich, do you do that in any of your advanced classes? >That would be quite a challenge.< We're talking about ascending the line that you just used to access the victim. And while I don't know if it's been done in Englestead, many, many of us have done rope ascents of that distance or further (including me). Dean
Dean Kurtz
>Given the real limitations of medical treatment that can be done in the >field I can’t help thinking that there should be more of a focus on >prevention. I’m sure many of you have run across groups and individuals in >the backcountry that are clearly under-prepared.< Great point, Todd, and I firmly believe that it is always easier to prevent a problem from ever occurring in the first place. I think that prevention is already addressed, though, in many courses from the ACA, ZAC, The Emperor, and others, as well as in mentoring that is provided by more experienced folks. Unfortunately, folks aren't always willing to take advantage of what's out there. Same problem with basic medical courses, folks aren't necessarily willing to take them. >Maybe an general audiance WFP (for prevention) class would be a good >addition to the WMI curriculum.< Please elaborate. What do you think should be included and how should it be delivered? Certainly, in the scenario we've been discussing, real prevention is covered in basic rappelling. Dean
Dean Kurtz
>In this thread the best advice for anyone who may have difficulties >distinguishing is to listen to Dean. If I ever have difficulties in a >canyon, he’s the guy I want by my side.< Thanks Rich, kind words. Do you ever sleep? Dean
Dean Kurtz
>Kinda bothers me when scenarios like this are tweaked with variables like, >”What if you don’t know how to ascend back out?” or “What if you don’t know >basic first aid?” Just pondering the scenario should encourage everyone to >acquire these skills.< Hopefully that's what we are accomplishing with at least some folks. Dean
Dean Kurtz
> My sequence would be:
* ASSESS >- responsiveness of victim and whether he/she can provide C care for >themselves< Can't be done from where you are. >– the location and determine whether the canyon can be descended and >ascended *safely* and *expediently*< >– your own abilities to determine whether you can descend and ascend the >canyon *safely* and *expediently*< Again, in my perfect world (which I know isn't the case), if you can't do this, you shouldn't be here. >– your abililty to provide trauma care (ABCD)< An honest question. >* PEOPLE WHO CANNOT< >– run for help< >– tell people you meet of accident and injuries< >– return to site to expedite rescue if you know that emergency personnel >have been alerted< >– if comfortable with descent, provide first aid until rescue personnel >arrive< >– since accident happened around noon, chances of rescue personnel arriving >before dark is good< I don't know how a person that cannot would expect to exedite a rescue, but let me just say, yes, if you can't do these things, run for help, because you can't do anyone any good where you're at. >* PEOPLE WHO CAN:< >– MUST descend canyon (per Rich and Dean)< >– if fatal A and B injuries, rest, pray, then ascend< >– if A and B injuries, provide care until exhausted and victim is dead, >rest, pray, then ascend< >– if treatable A/B/C injuries< >.~ apply first aid, then ascend, hoping victim can last the night, *or*< >.~ apply first aid, stay with victim hoping that rescue personnel will come >next day by the will of God< Yeah, I guess if prayer is your thing, either approach would warrant it, but as in most things, I don't think She's going to intervene on anyone's behalf in this scenario. Still my opinion, even after sleeping on it, that getting to the victim provides the best chances for positive outcome. >As noted above, if the victim is responsive and capable of treating their C >injuries, and they have D injuries that prevent them from continuing down >canyon, then running to arrange rescue and evacuation would seem a better >use of your time.< Still can't figure out how you were able to assess this from the top of the 300' headwall. Dean
Tom Jones
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, “homegrown6” wrote:
I am just curious, has anyone in the group here ascended back out of > Englestead before? Rich, do you do that in any of your advanced > classes? That would be quite a challenge.
Nick >
One of our other guides and checked it out for guiding. There is a clean shot downcanyon on the left about 1/4 mile. We dropped a 600′ rope there, rebelayed on a ledge 300′ down, then rapped to the canyon floor. Then climbed that rope (2×300′ climbs), walked to the head, rapped the first sequence in Engelstead and climbed back out the rope.
Once you wrap your head around it, jugging ropes is not that hard. A good skill to learn and practice on a regular basis, so that climbing the rope is not a “problem”, when it need to be done. There is not anything particularly difficult about the Engelstead jug, either at the head or at the tree downcanyon left 50 feet.
BUT – setting up ropes for jugging is somewhat different than setting them up for rappelling. Greater care should be taken in assessing wear spots and setting up to avoid them. AND, for this, we used 9mm ropes both to increase confidence in the process, and so that the ropes would not get gobi’d in the process.
Tom
restrac2000
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, “adkramoo” wrote: > — In Yahoo Canyons Group, “restrac2000” wrote:
The time variable is one I think often gets overlooked, even in minor accidents, which is why items like the “ten essentials” turn out to be so important. I look at my rescue at Corona Arch outside of Moab last autumn as an example of “realistic” rescue times. I went down before noon with heat stroke and was not to the hospital until 7-8ish.
WOW! And you were in the heat all that time? Why so long? Time table?
My scenario was fairly unique and I am still trying to investigate the possibilities of unknown illnesses (ie, connection with my current predicament). I took a rest in some Junipers for shade after teaching some Canyoneering techniques to the climbing guides staffing the rappel ( I was site manager, more than a little embarrassing). I woke up vomiting which escalated to dry heaving shortly thereafter. It took about 15+ minutes to realize the severity of the situation. Took about another 15-20 minutes to lower me (I was having severe reactions to exposure to sunlight and backed away a few times to vomit) from the 300′ rappel, which the guides did a phenomenal job doing.
Once at the bottom they had me in a shady alcove to protect me. Took about 15-20 minutes to get CP & TA medical staff to me, a response time that may have either saved my life or prevented potential permanent damage. They spent a while running through vitals and assessing a potential self-recovery and walk out. It was lucky this happened to me at an adventure race because of support team actually had an IV down at the Corona Arch TH which was immediately brought up “just in case”, along with water and ice.
My body relaxed for a while but then started going into seizure like tremors and showing signs of heat stroke, versus exhaustion, some unknown time thereafter. At this point my memory gets vague. I know up till then that actually thought I might be able to recover for a while in the alcove and then hike out at dusk with some help. But my level of consciouness plunged, my body was fluctuating extreme temperature differences in different parts of my body, I wasn’t sweating anymore. What put it over the top for the staff ( I knew the nurse pretty well) was my mental state, at that point they went ahead and notified GC SAR and put me on an IV.
Over the next couple hours I gradually stabilized (ie my bouts of tremors diminished and body temperature stabilized to a safer place, but by no means normal). The SAR team and ambulance crew arrived (probably after 3 pm or later) and started delegating staff to help with litter rigging, etc. It took a long while to rig the first 3rd class downclimb for the wheeled litter. They had about 10 folks alternating between rigging and leading the litter through the various obstacles (lost a lot of time here). The route to the TH was about 1-1.5 miles, which even with a wheeled litter takes a while to safely navigate (partially b/c half was trail and the rest cross-country, plus of my constant vomiting during transport). At that point I started responding to the direct sunlight again and my situation escalated a little more, though never to the initial symptoms. By the time they strapped me into the Ambulance and headed back it was around six already, I believe. Plus the drive time along the river road back to Allen Memorial.
> Your not going to believe this….or likely approve. For the Psycho Damage, our “call the marines” time was 10AM. We got out at 10:15 AM. We chased you folks down at the rangers shortly after you notified them. Since then I have adjusted our time to call for help, if we don’t return, to 10:30 AM the morning after we are due. This gives us a little more time to extract ourselves from whatever mess we have gotten ourselves into. I will apologize again for your awful night of wondering, cramped in the hold, in the pouring rain and the time you spent poking around the flotsam that morning, looking and hoping not to find our body parts. ;-/ > R
No need for apologies, I learned much about myself from that experience and all walked away. That said I will use your line, “Your not going to believe this….or likely approve”, but given the circumstances of that event I think we left to initiate the SAR before the mentioned time, once again a vague memory so I am not sure. With the weather events, extenuating route finding circumstances, and initial scene assessment ( I think we got up early and hiked up canyon) I would have no hesitation to initiate the search the same way again, even knowing the outcomes. Without the weather, or “first-descent” like scenario, it is a different equation. After meeting with the NPS and going over maps for that area you realize how long it would take to start an initial SAR search, nonetheless actual rescue. Rescue times in that part of the Lake are beyond scary. When I calculate these things now its not about the self-rescue times, its about the moderate to severe injury times that I get worried about. This is further exacerbated by my historic tendency to explore solo (not so much anymore). There is a fine line between preparedness to self rescue and time to call SAR. I will admit I don’t know the best way to decipher that difference yet, so I err on the side of my life/extra help. Things were different when I wasn’t married.
Phillip
homegrown6
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, “adkramoo” wrote:
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, “Rich Carlson” wrote:
Kinda bothers me when scenarios like this are tweaked with variables like, “What if you don’t know how to ascend back out?” or “What if you don’t know basic first aid?” Just pondering the scenario should encourage everyone to acquire these skills.
> I think that is the point. It accomplishes that. The tweaking helps because it speaks to the really for many folks. >
I am just curious, has anyone in the group here ascended back out of Englestead before? Rich, do you do that in any of your advanced classes? That would be quite a challenge.
Nick
Todd
There are a number of good first aid type courses and certifications availale, WFA, WFR, WEMT etc, which provide good information.
Given the real limitations of medical treatment that can be done in the field I can’t help thinking that there should be more of a focus on prevention. I’m sure many of you have run across groups and individuals in the backcountry that are clearly under-prepared.
Maybe an general audiance WFP (for prevention) class would be a good addition to the WMI curriculum.
-Todd
adkramoo
— In Yahoo Canyons Group, “Rich Carlson” wrote: > Kinda bothers me when scenarios like this are tweaked with variables like, “What if you don’t know how to ascend back out?” or “What if you don’t know basic first aid?” Just pondering the scenario should encourage everyone to acquire these skills.
I think that is the point. It accomplishes that. The tweaking helps because it speaks to the really for many folks.
Stevee B
“Fear leads to anger, anger leads to hate, hate leads to suffering.” I prefer Star Wars.
> Spoken like a true Adonis!